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Exfoliation Guide
TLDR: Just scroll to what type you wanna see.Exfoliation is a great way to help with many different skin concerns. The reason most exfoliate is for the benefit of speeding up skin cell turnover. Skin cell turnover essentially is new skin cells replacing old skin cells and it’s approximately around 28 to 42 days for it to happen. Our skin already exfoliates itself within those 28 to 42 days in a process called “desquamation”, but exfoliation can help speed that up when done correctly. With forms of exfoliation, it aids in that process. The issue with exfoliation is people overdo it and destroy their skin cell barrier. We see a lot of videos of people using AHAs, BHA, PHAs, and manual exfoliation daily. This is not ok for most people and they end up with compromised skin barriers or aging themselves quicker. Most only need to exfoliate once to three times max per week depending on the routine. However, all forms of exfoliation have amazing benefits for the skin if done correctly for the right skin, percentage, skin tone, and age.
Use this guide to find what you are looking for or read the whole thing lol. It’s a wall of text. Always remember to
USE SUNSCREEN ALWAYS SPF 30+ AT LEAST BROADSPECTRUM!
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (The Top Three)More for the drier people. Not all AHAs are for sensitive people, but they tend to have more options for people wanting gentle exfoliation or having sensitive skin. Strongest to lightest goes (and smallest to biggest in molecular size):
Glycolic<Lactic< Mandelic
It is really important to understand your skin tone when using these. A lot of people who have or can have hyperpigmentation and scarring easily may use too high of a percentage of certain AHAs causing this reaction. Remember stronger and higher is not better. Slow and steady can win the race a lot of times. Especially if you are young there is no rush. These can help with whiteheads, but not really blackheads. If BHA is too drying for you, you might need to look into AHAs. It is a must to use sunscreen with these as they will make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic Acid (Water-Soluble)
Skin Tone: Fitzpatrick skin types 1, 2, 3 (below skin types 3 should give caution.)
Skin Type: Combo, Oily, or balanced (“normal”) skin.
Skin Wants/Benefits: fight anti-aging, to boost collagen, quick results, control moderate acne, glowy skin, control hyperpigmentation or dark spots, and help with dullness.
Rules/Suggestions:
- Start super low please like 2% to 4% and build up to that 7% or 8%-10% max. Usually. This AHA works so fast because it penetrates the skin and can go to “hot spots” fast like a dark spot. However, since it flies through the skin, it can also cause trauma. Starting low can reduce negative effects.
- Darker skin tones should start slow when using this and maybe use glycolic acid at first within face washes.
- Suggested if you have more resilient skin and if you have more “mature” skin.
- Should hydrate, hydrate, hydrate.
- Pregnancy Safe
Lactic Acid (Water-Soluble)
Skin Tone: All Fitzpatricks.
Skin Type: Dehydrated, Dry, Combo, Sensitive, Kilaris Pilaris (KP), Crepey Skin.
Skin Wants: Hydration (could be dehydrated and have dry or oily skin), want a glow, softer skin, control kilaris pilaris (KP)/hyperpigmentation/acne. Help with dullness, skin texture, wrinkles (anti-aging and long-term effects), minimizing pores. Random but nail health too!
Rules/Suggestions:
- 5% at the start max is 7% for benefits from studies. If you can handle it and have been using it for a while go up to 10%.
- Safe for darker skin tones starting out at 5% to 7%. You need to start low to avoid hyperpigmentation.
- Good for pregnancy
Mandelic Acid (The only oil-soluble AHA which makes it amazing for acne types)
Skin Tone: All Fitzpatricks.
Skin Type: Extremely Sensitive, Dry and acne-prone, Dehydrated, Easily Traumatized, Oily.
Skin Wants: Moderate oil (sebum control) and acne control, anti-inflammatory, control hyperpigmentation, help with dullness, evening out skin tone, glowing skin, skin texture, anti-bacterial, need hydration needs help with laying down make up.
Rules/Suggestions:
- 5% to 10% to start (5% you might not see any benefits though. It might be a good way to introduce if you are worried.)
- Also if you have a nut sensitivity you may want to patch this one really hard to see that you won't have an allergic reaction.
- Extremely safe for darker skin types (Type 3 to Type 6.)
- If you like oily feeling ingredients.
- Good for pregnancy!
Beta Hydroxy Acid
So there's only one BHA used in skin care and technically it's not truly a BHA (technically it is an O-Hydroxybenzoic acid lol). There's only one and it's Salicylic Acid (SA). This Acid does a lot and has grade B evidence to clear acne out. It is the best for those blackheads because it's oil-loving and can go into the pore. If you are truly looking to fight acne look into this and a grade A ingredient to help fight moderate to severe acne.
Salicylic acid
Skin Tone: All Fitzpatricks.
Skin Type: Oily, Moderate to Severe acne-prone individuals, Seborrheic dermatitis, KP, Rosacea.
Skin Wants: Pore Declogging, Destroy those Sebaceous Filaments (blackheads) and Closed Comedones (CC white heads), Needs a spot treatment, minimize pores, fight enlarged pores, anti-bacterial needs.
Rules/Suggestions:
- Can also do work for slight to moderate hyperpigmentation (not know for it though), inflammation, and decrease minimal redness
- Works at 0.50% to 2%
- If you are dry you can use this to spot treat acne before trying AHAs.
- Avoid for pregnancy
Poly Hydroxy Acids
Skin Tone: All fitzpatrick shades.
Skin type: Extremely sensitive, dry, dehydrated skin, or KP.
Skin Wants: Less sensitivity, Less aggressive products, hydration, anti-oxidant, stop collagen breakdown within the skin, skin firmness and help with dullness.
These are the "new" upcoming acids. They give you everything AHAs can do but no or little sun sensitivity. These are amazing in toners and can be worked up very well to everyday use. More easy on the skin than both AHAs and BHA. Now I am NOT saying use these everyday.
Rules/Suggestion:
- PHAs to look out for: Lactobionic acid, Maltobionic acid, Gluconolactone, Zinc gluconate, Copper gluconate, Gluconic acid
- Also help strengthen the natural skin barrier function.
- No Photosensitivity
Enzyme (Plant) Exfoliants
Skin tone: All Fitzpatricks.
Skin type: All.
Skin Wants: Less irritating, gentle, less drying.
These are for people who need to feel something physical happening. Enzyme exfoliants are more gentle than physical ones (like scrubs). If you need instant gratification and need that scrub working feeling look into these. (pineapple and papaya enzymes are where most of these enzyme exfoliants come from.)
Rules/Suggestion:
- Can be used for sensitive skin and skin conditions that have more of a rough texture.
- Look for Papaya (Papain), Pineapple (Bromelain), or Pumpkin (Pumpkin Enzymes.)
Manual Exfoliation These are your towels, scrubs, gloves, shaving, dermablading or whatever you’re rubbing against the skin for exfoliation. This type can be beneficial for certain skin concerns such as Kilaris Pilaris (KP). This type of exfoliation can go wrong as it can take away alive skin cells and not dead ones adding to sensitivity. It can give immediate satisfaction though. Better for the hands and feet, not the face.
Products or Ways To Do It: Foreo Luna 2 or 3 (Silicone Face Brush), Towels (you have them at home), Shaving. If you want to and have to look into facial scrubs or facial exfoliating pads.
Very Minor (like very light and also kinda an honorable mention) Exfoliation*:* These are skin care ingredients that give slight exfoliation affects.
Azelaic Acid
Skin Tone: All Fitzpatrick.
Skin Type: Acne prone, Extremely sensitive, Rosacea (!!!!), Hyperpigmentation-Prone, Combo, Balance, Oily, and Dry skin.
Skin Wants: Anti-inflammation, anti-redness, anti-hyperpigmentation, anti-acne, very gentle exfoliation, fight melasma, smoother complexion, stop pore plugging.
Rules/Suggestion:
- Grade A evidence to fight acne and very gentle exfoliation (very light but still should be watched). This can be used daily and used with another acid (like an AHA, BHA, or PHA once a week) to help fight acne, hyperpigmentation, and redness. Whatever you need it to be, it can do it. Can be drying for drier skin types.
- If you are a dry or oily sensitive individual, have active low to moderate active acne, hyperpigmentation, don't want extreme exfoliation and not really looking for an exfoliation and something that can be used daily and don't mind a little dryness.
- Starting around 10% or 15 (maximum 20%. Gel form at 15% can be more potent than 20% creams.)
- Can help Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE).
- No photosensitivity.
- Safe for pregnancy.
Conclusion (What not to use when exfoliating and closing statements)
Always patch test (neck or arm area or wherever) before using these acids. You never know if your skin will react badly. If you don't use caution you could get a and reaction. Now look, you're at your doctor's office or battling another skin concern on top of your old concern. So please let's patch test before use. If you get a bad reaction (itching, burning, stinging, redness, swelling, SKIN PILLING OFF, etc.) stop use immediately!!! Just take two weeks to a month using the product once a week to get accumulated to the product and then incorporate further into your routine.
Please don’t exfoliant more than 3 times a week (once or twice a week is amazing) especially if you are using retinols/retinoids. Don't use retinol or exfoliating acid (except azelaic acid as it technically is not considered an exfoliant) at the same time please (layering one and then the other unless it is within the same product)! Please avoid "slugging"/ointments/balms use when exfoliating or using retinol. Irritation can increase when "slugging or using ointments such as "LRP Cicaplast Baume or Cerave Healing Ointment" as these products basically trap moisture from leaving and active ingredients are trapped as well to causing them to become more potent and the longevity of how long it stays active on the skin. Use discretion. You can and will destroy your skin barrier over time. Please also avoid using exfoliation after shaving the face (the body is a little different.) I would exfoliate the day before you actually shave for a better shave.
