THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:️
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.github.com
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
Best Multiaccount Browser. Secure and Fast.
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Vision - Antidetect Browser for Multi-Accounting and Affiliate Marketing
Fast, reliable and convenient antidetect browser for arbitrage, bonus hunting, working with marketplaces and other tasks.browser.vision
Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit:
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.privatebin.net
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
am I a yn if I steal cookies?
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
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DIFFICULTY:
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EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
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- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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eat.do
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trump.fo
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altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Fast, reliable and convenient antidetect browser for arbitrage, bonus hunting, working with marketplaces and other tasks.
Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
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DIFFICULTY:
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EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
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- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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eat.do
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altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
insert ishowspeed trying not to laugh meme
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
Best Multiaccount Browser. Secure and Fast.
Octo Browser is a #1 Antidetect based on latest Chromium source with real device fingerprints 🚀 Try now!
Vision - Antidetect Browser for Multi-Accounting and Affiliate Marketing
Fast, reliable and convenient antidetect browser for arbitrage, bonus hunting, working with marketplaces and other tasks.
Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
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DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
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BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
Best Multiaccount Browser. Secure and Fast.
Octo Browser is a #1 Antidetect based on latest Chromium source with real device fingerprints 🚀 Try now!
Vision - Antidetect Browser for Multi-Accounting and Affiliate Marketing
Fast, reliable and convenient antidetect browser for arbitrage, bonus hunting, working with marketplaces and other tasks.
Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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eat.do
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blades.tf
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bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
nitrous oxide is the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to lower inhibHOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
don't they usually have like a pimp who usually has a gun
nigga
sematary sold
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Vision - Antidetect Browser for Multi-Accounting and Affiliate Marketing
Fast, reliable and convenient antidetect browser for arbitrage, bonus hunting, working with marketplaces and other tasks.
Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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eat.do
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king.fo
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duff.do
blades.tf
trump.fo
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altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
I know bro, i was kidding calling is dead anywayzoinbase filled with larps, dont even bother man
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
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BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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wanna get food for cheap?
eat.do
memeshop.cc
king.fo
vortex.fo
duff.do
blades.tf
trump.fo
imperium.fo
altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
I can't
bro posted a carding guide
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
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Enclave.cc
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bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
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DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
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binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
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- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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wanna get food for cheap?
eat.do
memeshop.cc
king.fo
vortex.fo
duff.do
blades.tf
trump.fo
imperium.fo
altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
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Enclave.cc
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other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
except you will never find a runner and if you do hes gonna finesse youwheres method 6 where u get octo browser and get a bank log w email access and cookies and u send ~9k to your drop acc via ach and have ur runner cash it out at the banks branch and u cut ur runner 0.5%???
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
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DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
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- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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wanna get food for cheap?
eat.do
memeshop.cc
king.fo
vortex.fo
duff.do
blades.tf
trump.fo
imperium.fo
altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
thats crazy bc i never had my runners finesse me
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
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DIFFICULTY:
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EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
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- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
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lmk
This is nice
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Fast, reliable and convenient antidetect browser for arbitrage, bonus hunting, working with marketplaces and other tasks.
Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
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DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
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- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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eat.do
memeshop.cc
king.fo
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duff.do
blades.tf
trump.fo
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altsrus.com
bypass kyc: https://looksmax.org/threads/mega-guide-how-to-bypass-kyc.1618836/
other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
GitHub - pwnless/AutoFLEX: Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app!
Auto inject FLEX to any iOS app! Contribute to pwnless/AutoFLEX development by creating an account on GitHub.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
binchecker.com
binlist.net
freebinchecker.com
bincheck.iobins.pro : Free BIN Credit Card Database Search / Lookup
BIN search - Find BIN info, check bin, filter BIN details & lookup bin region with advance search options from our latest updated Bin Database. Credit card BIN search can tell you bins bank name, bins card type, bins vendor, bin level & bin region that issued to the card. lookup by binbins.su
- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS SATIRE.
Before i start, this is not for anybody who is a retarded moral fag. You have to do anything to get bread. Stop being high inhib and lock in.
thread song:
This is probably not for 3rd worlders. USA, AUS, UK, CANADA are the best.
HOW TO ACHIEVE LOW INHIBITION
1. Micro dose psilocybin (0.1-0.3 grams)
This is different for everybody, try this once and see what happens. Everybody reacts differently.
2. Za
Straightforward
3. Xanax/Codeine
These make you forget EVERYTHING that happened. You could pop a bar in your house and then end up in Germany and you would have no idea why.
“But where tf do u get them?”
Just ask ur friends, if they dont know ask any “thug”.
https://litfarms.com
https://psychedelicproductstore.cat...-products-shop-/psychedelic-products-shop/gwu
OVERALL: Alcohol is the best, but it’s not as efficient as the rest.
METHOD 1: GYM LOCKER METHOD
Me personally I haven’t done this cuz im lazy asf, but some niggas i know ran up hundreds per hit.
Step 1: Get a membership at a gym that doesn’t id you. Make sure the gym is far away from your home.
Step 2: Go to the locker room/bag room. Go on ur phone or whatever. Don’t watch your phone watch the lockers.
Step: 3: When the client leaves the room jugg his ass. Be quick. Take anything of value.
“What if he has nothing”
That’s why you keep going.
Don’t take the entire bag and walk out like a retard.
Take any bread, put everything back in the same position, he’ll be back in 30 minutes, keep going until you wipe that shit clean.
OVERALL: Insane method, you can run up 100s in a day. Insanely risky though, these niggas are big as shit and will beat tf outta you.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 2: FUCK N JUGG
For this method you either have a girl (which most of you dont) or just buy a whore
WHORE
1. Fuck her
2. Jugg her (dont pay that bitch)
3. Take her bag, take her clothes, take everything she has
I haven’t done this (im underage) but in theory it sounds possible
GIRL
1. Accept her invitation, talk to her for a bit
2. When she invites you to her house act normal
3. AFTER you hit, stuff ur pockets with whatever you can get
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 3: JUGG N RESELL
I did this, but i had to stop since the guy i was working with disappeared. Stealing high value items from grocery stores and sell on ebay or similar sites is a pretty common thing.ownerCrest teeth whitening, gillette razors, etc. Basically anything that is over $40 is able to sell pretty quickly for 50% the price of the item on ebay. (Crest whitening strips are $100 a box)You can make upwards of $3k a month doing that or way more if you have big ballsRequirements: Be a good stealthy theif or just not give a fuckHere's a tip, most (not all) grocery stores or walmarts will watch you steal, if they do see you they will gather evidence everytime you come in and steal, until they have enough evidence to charge you for a felony ($2,500+)One of the best ways to steal is fake/real barcodes that you put on expenses items to buy at self checkout, along with some legitimate purchases.Also applying for deliever apps is another easy way to steal, (Instacart, Walmart spark driver, etc.).With spark driver it's easy, just fake scan expensive items in-between while you are doing a real order, put stolen items on bottom of cart underneath a bunch of legitimate items for the order, just incase you get a random check on the app, they have to scan 3 items in your cart, that's why you try to hide stolen items in bottom of bags underneath stuff so they don't get scanned.You can take it even further and open the accounts with cpn or stolen info so the account isn't actually linked to your personal information.That is why you see all these videos online of people straight up robbing these places, filling up bags and just walking out. Because cops don't do shit and employees of the stores legally can't stop you.
what i did:
1. Go into a store with a bag
2. Pick a item that u want to get
3. Place the item in ur bag
4. I chose controller, stuffed my bag with them, i bought a small chocolate, and they asked to search my bag, i let them search it. You know what they did? ABSOLOUTELY NOTHING. They saw all the controllers, and just let me go.
5. Now, you find a client, or if ur over 18, just go to the pawn shop and resell. Facebook marketplace also works.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 4: ATM METHOD
This is a really good method, i just found it a few days ago.
1. Suit up ifykwim ( get a zk/any type of blade)
2. Make sure it’s night, and the target is someone smaller than you.
3. “Yo G lemme hold a 50”
4. If they say no, show ur blade, and say “you sure”
5. If they still say no, give up (NEVER TOUCH A CIVILIAN)
With more people this method is OP, your never gonna do anything to them, but they still give u their shit
METHOD 4: FB MARKETPLACE
I know niggas who do this for a LIVING, this shit is genuinly crazy YOU CAN RUN UP THOUSANDS A DAY!!
1. Get fb marketplace, you can either sell smthing, or “buy” smth ifykwim
2. MAKE sure to bring a friend
3. Run off after you get the bread/item
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
REFUNDING:
There's many versions of ftid, but as this thread is for total newbies, I wont cover all of them. This one above is ftid v3. Right now it doesnt work that good, takes almost a month to complete. I would say, if you are experienced refunder and have much time, go for it. If you are total newbie, you will mostly fail.What are scans? Why is it best method for now?While people still use common methods like FTID or even DNA / EB / PEB which doesnt always work and usually take around 3 weeks, can lead to internal or even external investigations, there are new ways to get refunded, with 100% succes ratio. It's about manipulating the courier company tracking system.
Once you manipulate it you can get your refund easily within hours. It doesnt even require from you contacting any supporter, it's fully automatic.You can get your refund or replacement while the item is in transit to you, which also means you can repeat the process and do few refunds instead of just one using common methods. Your account, address or identify won't be even red-flagged meaning there's no risk of failure. This is why you should not use your aged accounts for methods such as dna / eb / peb or even ftid.
Instead of that, just use scan method.It works because insiders of courier company have acces to trackingAPI, so they are able to put scans on your tracking using your tracking number, so it looks like returned to original destination, it looks like you have never received your parcel. For companies such as, for example Amazon, it means you did not get your package and it's in the way to their warehouse. Your order is cancelled, you get your item and you get your refund issued. Your account is not suspicious and you can repeat the process without any doubts.
For apple it will be displayed as "undeliverable" and your refund will be issued within hours. The same is with a lot of companies, in general, it's 90% automatic refund.Only downside of this method is that you need different insider for every store you want to refund, it's very logical that amazon insider won't be able to issue refund on apple website, so it's all about specific insiders.Instead of using DNA / EB / PEB / various versions of FTID, there are Insider's Scans, which seems to fix the problem of increased security and suspiciousness of companies, but now, they have their own teams of social engineers which are patching and observing refund scene and thats why refunding is not that easy as it used to be.
Federal investigations and legal actions still are not a thing, but we don't know for how long. The average refunder won't earn that much as the average refunder did back then. Beside the fact legal actions are still rare, I think everyone who is digging into this craft, should also dig into - at least - Basic OpSec. I see people not using vens, disk encryption, proxies, diffrent nicknames, addresses, payment methods.It takes few weeks to learn guys, do something about it, if you are willing to do refunds on your own, do it properly.
DIFFICULTY:
RISK:
EFFICIENCY:
METHOD 5: LARPING METHOD
For starters, watch this video:
but how am i gonna get content?
jailbreak ur phone and tweak.
find tweaks for paypal, coinbase etc etc
cant jailbreak?
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DIFFICULTY:
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EFFICIENCY:
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CARDING:
Ever wondered why none of the cards you buy from online card shops seem to work?
Or if they do, why are they acting inconsistent? Some cards sometimes work for thousands, while most of the times a lot of them cannot even sign you up for a Netflix account!
In order to understand and optimize your workflow for success you need to understand the layers of approvals your order details need to go through in order for your purchase to even result in a success, let alone get it shipped, and why the cards you're buying probably get caught before even proceeding to next stages.
Swiss Cheese Model
When assessing the risk of a transaction being fraudulent/unauthorized, banks and payment processors implement what is called in the cybersecurity industry as a 'Swiss Cheese Model'.
What this means is that instead of the transaction being assessed a single time, it is rigorously put through multiple checks, and require multiple systems of approval, before it allows a charge to succeed. Through advancements in AI and Machine learning algorithms, this entire process take milliseconds, and are virtually frictionless to the end legitimate consumer.
For this writeup's demonstration purposes, we'll steadily assume your card is fully valid. I'll walk you through each step, and reveal at the end why the cards you bought tend to fail. The first step of the process when you submit a transaction is essentially the site's own risk analysis. Seon, Radar, Riskified, Forter, the list goes on and on
You see, while you can have a brand-new laptop with an astounding fingerprint, the best residential proxy in the world, your card could've been run through a fuckton of checks within the fraud system and this increases the risk metrics for your transaction tremendously.
In order to understand what I mean, we need to have an in-depth understanding of the underground economy of card-selling:
Understanding how the CVV economy operates needs only four words, and is dead-simple: Sellers want maximum profit.
While shop operators and maintainers have reputation to establish and maintain, sellers on a lot of these platforms do not, they are often faceless entities that rotate identities regularly, and whatever route they can take to make them more money, they'll take. What this means is that card shops with rules that aren't stringent enough or quality checks that aren't rigid enough will inevitably get a sea of garbage/resold cards.
This also logically means that online shops that do not have enough traffic/sales to make the sellers the most profit are relegated to be low-priority when these sellers start selling cards. What this means is that, the most logical way to maximize profit for someone who resells cards is to post it first on the most popular card shop, give it a few days of selling, check the validity after a few days and remove dead cards, then proceed to reuploading it to the next profitable shop. By the third time the card has been resold they'll basically go free-for-all and post it to as many smaller shops as they can.
What happens is that your success becomes tied to how high up the food chain the shop you're buying from, or how stringent their quality checks are. The other side effect of this kind of economy is that big players/shops maintain their dominance and are able to extract more profit from each card sold since the quality of their cards is much better (since sellers post on them first) and they maintain a higher market share (since smart buyers will check with their site first).
Anatomy of a Resold Card
One thing people do not understand enough is that a card being resold to multiple stores isn't the biggest factor as to why you're failing the first risk check. A card could, in theory, be resold to five shops, remain unsold for weeks, and still hit big numbers.
The larger problem is that the process of reselling cards to multiple stores necessitates a lot of the greedy sellers—since they also want to double-dip and profit on sold cards—to run checks on the cards before they reupload them.
How are cards checked?
With each re-upload to different stores, a seller can then use services like 4Check and Lux to check the bases and remove the dead cards. While this presents a whole host of different problems, which I'll tackle later, this simply isn't what a majority of sellers use since these merchant-based checkers tend to get expensive and unprofitable. Checking 1000 cards in 4Check costs 250$!
So what do they use? Dirt-cheap bind checkers.
The Boom of Bind Checkers
So what are Bind-based Checkers? Bind-based checkers are essentially checkers that attempt to bind the card to a service, or to create a payment using the card in an automated and fast way. A couple examples of this are FlashCheck and OMGCheck:
The payment system these bind-based checkers operate in is mostly Stripe or Braintree. Either they have a massive list of API keys that they rotate regularly, or they have a massive list of websites with unsecured forms (for donations/adding card/etc) where they submit the card details to and await response. Their scripts submit the card number, expiry, and CVV to the Stripe/Braintree endpoint, and depending on the API response, base their assessment if the card is Live or Dead.
When you run your card through these checkers, the Stripe/Braintree/Adyen AI model having mitigations for card-checking, will essentially flag your card as 'stolen' and block it from any payment process done on their payments network indefinitely.
The only choice you then have for this card, with it being blocked from most major payment networks, is to use it with an obscure low-security card processor that has no connection whatsoever with Stripe/Braintree/Adyen. With the big three blocking your card, you've essentially limited yourself out of using the card you have on about 90% of all online stores.
The boom of the bind-checkers only helps greedy card resellers and skids on telegram who generate credit card numbers to buy Spotify subscriptions, but it has been an overall net negative for the industry as a whole. It singlehandedly destroyed the success rate of carders far larger than anything else before it. Your only solution in this case is be strict about which shops you plan on sourcing your cards.
Risk-Assessment Providers
If your card successfully passes the initial checks by AI models, the next step involves scrutiny by risk-assessment providers. These external companies specialize in evaluating the risk associated with a transaction, providing an additional layer of security beyond what Stripe offers. Unlike Stripe, which primarily considers machine-generated signals such as IP addresses and browser fingerprints, risk-assessment providers take a more comprehensive approach. They delve into the entire metadata of the transaction, examining various factors to ensure its overall legitimacy and safety. This thorough evaluation helps in detecting any potential fraud that might have been missed by the initial AI checks.
Risk-profile of the cardholder (including amount)
Risk-profile of the merchant
Nature of the transaction
A practical example of this process is repeatedly entering the wrong CVV code. While Stripe's systems might not immediately block you, various banks using different risk-assessment providers could. This discrepancy could result in receiving a 'generic_decline' code from Stripe. It's important to note that Stripe's Radar system does not give customers detailed explanations if a decline is triggered by an external risk provider, even if your transaction is deemed safe by Stripe itself. Thus, the external risk-assessment can impact the outcome, despite a positive assessment from Stripe. If you've used Stripe Radar to assess your own cards, you've likely come across this: all the fraud metrics are low, but the fraud score is still high:
If risk-assessment providers flag your transaction, it often results in a 'card block.' These blocks are usually temporary and are automatically lifted within approximately 72 hours. Alternatively, you can expedite the process by contacting your bank directly to have the block removed.
This situation is what CC shops and checkers refer to as 'risk-control' or code 59 Suspected Fraud. If you come across this, it's best to let your card take a short breather for a couple of days—think of it as a mini-vacation. During this cooling-off period, if the card owner hasn’t set up alerts and remains blissfully unaware of your transaction attempt, you can try again. Just remember, success relies on factors mostly out of your control, aside from the purchase amount. Repeatedly checking the card through merchant-based checkers is like repeatedly nudging someone who's trying to nap—you're bound to get a 'card block.' So, give it some space and let things cool down a bit.
Bank Checks
Congrats! Your transaction passed the payment processor and risk provider. Now for the final step: the bank. Bank checks are basic; they focus on transaction amount and how it fits the cardholder’s usual spending habits.
Say the cardholder only uses his Costco card to hide his $10 OF subscription from his wife. Suddenly, it tries to buy an $8,000 Alienware laptop? The bank will likely block it. Big deviations from normal spending raise flags.
Here’s a trick: use the cardholder’s ZIP code with this tool (https://www.incomebyzipcode.com/) to find the neighborhood’s median income. Use this to set a reasonable transaction limit. Note that for higher chances of approval, transactions should be within a reasonable range of the median income.
Card tier and BINs matter, but not overly so. Platinum cards may allow higher limits, but sudden large purchases can still be blocked. The inverse is also true: Standard/Classic cards can hit big if the cardholder loves to splurge on expensive things to feel adequate and look rich. Some BINS work better for some stores. Also, consider the card's transaction history. Frequent small purchases leading up to a big one might help normalize the larger amount in the bank's eyes. Logically, large purchases by the holder lend trust to large purchases by you, so what I tend to do is use Visa Purchase Alerts, wait for the holder to make huge purchases like this, and follow it up with my own big purchase
What Is Visa Purchase Alerts?
Visa Purchase Alerts sends realtime notifications to cardholders when their card is used.
Why is this useful?
You have direct access to the cardholder's spending history which can help with transactions that need verification.
Aside from that…
- You’ll know when the holder is using their card which can help analyze spending patterns
In turn it lets you know when and when to not use the card.
Here is 1000 of these BINs that work to monitor real time transactions on purchasealerts.visa.com (HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ge9z...ey=dp7h0zebx5q3lky98z6whssi2&st=qkzjsday&dl=0))
Now the most magical part of this is that the entire check process from platform to bank takes less than two seconds. And these two seconds decide the fate of your transaction, so try to optimize for what you can control (the amount of the purchase, the shop you're buying from, choosing zip, choosing BIN) and do not waste too much time over things you can't.
Remember, as the financial systems improve over time, so should your strategies in circumventing them. And the only way you can do that is to gain proper knowledge through experience.
How to Check Credit Card Balance:
When CC balance is negative, you can’t carry out any transaction. Confirm whether CC balance is positive by doing the following:
- Find out the CC bank name via
BIN Tools
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- Lookup for the phone number of the bank using Google search, Bing, Yahoo, etc.
- Call the phone line using Skype.
- Follow the command prompt and key in the required codes.
- The robot will read out the CC
balance. It is advisable to confirm CC balance so that you do not waste time on anything.
How to Check CC is Live or Dead:
- Online, You can check for live or dead CC online using websites like bin-checker. However, I don’t recommend using any site because they are likely going to compromise the security of the CC. They may even use the CC to carry out transactions before you.
- Personally, Apply for free 7-day membership with Amazon Alexa. If the CC is live, you will successfully become a member.
- Checkers, Ideally the best option but keep in mind it can possibly kill sensitive bins. Checkers use $0 Pre Authorization or a $10+ Charge to check if it is live.
Types of VISA Credit Cards Used for Carding:
Visa cards are the most used cards for carding because of the Non-VBV type of cards. We
have the V.B.V. and the Non VBV.
VBV- VBV means Verified by Visa. This kind of card is useless in carding unless you have access to the phone line or email of the target. The VBV CC requires that you pass through security authentication, which could require SSN (Social Security Number), D.O.B. (Date of
Birth), OTP (One-Time Password), etc. to proceed with any transaction. It is not suitable for carding, and you should avoid buying such CC.
Non-VBV - It is the CC that pros recommend for carding. It does not require security questions to proceed with transactions.
What Site Can I Card?
There is no site that you can’t card. As long as the website supports online trade with credit cards, the carding method will work. Just be careful with the carding steps and get all the recommended tools.
Why Your Carding Is Not Successful?
- Dead CC
- You are using a VBV CC (credit card
- Verified by Visa)
- Spending too much
- Negative CC balance
- You missed a tool or a step
Things You Need For Carding:
- RDP or VM
- Proxy (Socks5)
- Anti Detect Browser
How Can I Cashout?
- Casino Sites eg: crowncoins/fliff/prizepicks/bovada
- Casino Apps eg: Bubble Cash/Bubble Coin/Bubble Venture
- Webcam Sites
- 3 Payment Gateway eg: Paypal/Stripe/Square
- 4 Remitly, TransferWise (wise), Western Union, Xe Send Money, Venmo
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
What Is An Antidetect Browser?
An antidetect browser replaces or disguises the digital fingerprint of the browser that websites use to identify users.
Websites capture the digital fingerprint to identify users engaged in multi-accounting - managing multiple accounts from a single device. Multi-accounting is prohibited on certain social networks, advertising platforms, betting sites, etc.
How Do Websites Detect Multi-accounting?
By IP: Websites block suspicious addresses and prohibit creating multiple accounts from a single address.
By behavior: If a user interacts with a site in a non-standard or strange way, they may receive a warning, captcha or ban.
For example, on an advertising platform like Facebook, posting multiple ads in succession may be considered suspicious due to common practices of scammers who hack accounts and run numerous ads through them.
By a unique set of user device information known as the digital fingerprint.
What Is Fingerprinting?
A fingerprint consists of various characteristics of the user's hardware and browser. Each of this can be common;
For example, there are many users with Windows 11 OS, Chrome browser and a screen resolution of 1920x1080.
By adding 30-40 more parameters for verification, a user's uniqueness can be determined with high probability.
Checkers like AmUnique compare your fingerprint with others based on several parameters to assess the likelihood of your fingerprint being unique.
Fingerprinting doesn't require storing data on the user's side, making it difficult to detect and bypass as the browser provides necessary characteristics for better service functionality. Unlike cookies, the unique characteristics of a fingerprint cannot simply be disabled. This is because the parameters of your browser and system that are transmitted to the server are an integral part of the browser's operation when visiting web pages. For example, a website needs to know your screen resolution, the specific browser you are using and the language settings to display the site correctly. Therefore, the device through which you access the site doesn't conceal your data but rather provides it for the better functioning of services. Minor changes in some fingerprint characteristics will not prevent an already familiar user from being recognized. Every security system operates differently and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to bypassing fraud prevention measures. Developers of anti-detection browsers continuously research and analyze new security trends to devise effective bypass methods.
How Do Anti-detection tools help bypass restrictions?
Let's discuss how antidetect allows circumventing site protection against multi-accounting, using Octo Browser as an example. To avoid raising suspicions, users should appear unremarkable to anti-fraud systems. Octo Browser uses the Chromium platform, also the foundation for over thirty other popular browsers, including the market leader, Google Chrome. Extra tracking mechanisms of Google are removed from Chrome in Octo, such as RLZ, histograms, UMA metrics, and Chrome features tied to Google services like synchronization and cloud password management. The browser is based on a Google Chrome-free version of Chromium, closely resembling Chrome from the site's perspective. To prevent antidetect profiles from being exposed during Chrome updates, developers update their browsers. Octo updates within a few days of each Chrome release.
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Can You Checkout With Any Email?
This is your first fucking priority when scoping out a site. Email validation is a major antifraud factor, and being able to use any email address - especially the cardholders - can dramatically lower your fraud score.
Why? Because antifraud systems get a hard-on for email addresses. Theyre one of the strongest indicators of legitimacy. Using the actual cardholders email makes you look like the real deal.
Heres what to check:
Can you checkout as guest with any random email?
Can you create accounts without email verification?
Does the site send order confirmations to unverified emails?
Most sites are caught between a rock and a hard place here. They know email verification would help stop fraud, but it also creates friction in the checkout process. And friction = lost sales. Thats why many dont have robust defenses against this.
Remember: The more closely you can match the cardholders real details, including their email, the better your chances of sliding past antifraud. This isnt just about getting through one transaction - its about understanding how these systems think and using their own logic against them.
Can You Change The Delivery Address After Checkout?
Post-checkout delivery address changes are your secret weapon when dealing with dirty drops. Some sites let you pull a switcheroo after the orders confirmed - changing from the billing address you used to slip past fraud checks to your actual drop location.
HOW TO GET A DROP ADDRESS
This will show you how to find a address for methods involving CPNs, fullz, etc.It is also a good way to find a address for refunding, darkweb buying. etc.You start by finding a house on Zillow. Search up the city you need, change the "sort by" filter to newest. Scroll down and go back a month, look for a empty house for rent.You want to pull up and see if it's uninhabited before doing anything. Alternatively you could use a abandoned house but make it look habitable. Mow the lawn and shit lol, be creative.(Next part is mostly only for CPNs, getting ccs, etc.)
Now we need to set up Informed Delivery. Later set up mail forwarding so you never have to come back to the drop address.Informed delivery let's you know when mail comes in. You'll need this so you can quickly get your mail from the drop.You can set up informed delievery with any address. But if the address is already signed up for informed delivery it won't work. You can side step this by applying for "USPS change of address" with the address.Once you receive whatever it is you are having mailed there, now you want to set up mail forwarding so you can forward future mail.
You will need to open a "personal mailbox" to forward the mail to.This will involve a fake ID and fake information (fullz/cpn), and possibly fake documents for proof of address.You need to make sure it is a personal mailbox and not a PO box because you can't do most things with a PO box. A personal address you receive a actual address that you can use on anything.You can also accomplish this more anonymously by paying a junkie/homeless/random to open up the mailbox for you and get the mail when you need it.Nowadays, virtual addreses are not reliable for many methods. They work well for some users, while for some they may not work at all.Many virtual addresses become burnt out over time due to overuse or misuse.
Heres why this matters:
Using the cardholders billing address as your shipping address dramatically improves your chances of getting through antifraud. But unless youre planning to camp outside their house like a fucking stalker, you need a way to redirect that package.
Two main approaches to watch for:
Self-service address changes in the order management system
Customer support (more common, but requires social engineering)
Do your homework before attempting a hit
Check their FAQ pages - legitimate customers fuck up addresses all the time
Make a small test purchase to probe customer service responsiveness
Scout their order management system for address change capabilities
Pro tip: Customer service reps are usually undertrained minimum wage workers who dont give two shits about security protocols. A simple 'oops, wrong address' story often works wonders.
How to use the iPhone for maximum effectiveness
Use Safari exclusively. Forget Chrome or Firefox they leak tons of info. Safari is your only browser. This even works better since most people who use iPhones only use Safari.
Leverage iCloud Private Relay if you can. If youre scratching your head wondering what the fuck that is dont worry Ill cover it in-depth in my next writeup. For now just know its like a VPN on steroids.
Keep your iOS updated. Using an outdated iOS not only makes you more prone to fingerprinting techniques and bugs as it also doesnt blend you well with most people since everyone updates their iOS. Youre trying to be a face in the crowd and not stick out. This means you shouldn't use beta versions either.
When carding and using proxies stick with the built-in HTTP proxy settings rather than third-party proxy tools. Sure you can use apps like Surge and Potatso for Socks5 but by leveraging iOS native proxy feature youre ensuring your TLS fingerprint matches most iPhones perfectly. Its like wearing the same uniform as everyone else in the digital battlefield.
If youre using an unpopular device say an old iPhone X with limited market share your best bet is enabling advanced fingerprinting protection. This blends you with as many users as possible making you just another face in the crowd. The reason this works better is that there are more people who use AFP than those who have the same phone as you.
If youve got a relatively popular model like the iPhone 15 Pro Max enabling this actually does more harm than good. Youre already part of a massive group of users so leaving it off keeps you in that larger pool. Its counterintuitive but sometimes standing out less means doing less.
For app-based carding like hitting Amazonreformat (https://www.amazon.com/) your phone once youre done with the account. Apps cant track users across complete wipes but they sure as hell can if you dont reset. Apps (and not websites) use whats called the Identifier for Vendors (IDFV) a unique identifier that persists across app reinstalls but gets reset with a full device wipe. Its like burning your fingerprints off after each job.
If youre using Safari to card make sure to clear the cookies and cache after each session. Think of it as wiping down the crime scene - dont leave any digital fingerprints behind. Especially since these cookies are read by the sites that stored them.
When using a proxy and Safari to card fix your timezone and language settings (especially if using an international card). While antifraud systems cant fingerprint you they can still see your timezone and language. Dont be the dipshit who claims to be in Tokyo while your phone's time is set to New York.
Reasons why your card declines
Incorrect data entry in the payment window - When trying to make a purchase, especially online or through a mobile app, it's easy to incorrectly enter a digit of a credit card number, expiration date or security code.This can be a simple explanation for a declined transaction.
Card expired - the card has expired
Over-limit - your transaction is over the credit limit balance or debit card balance.
Suspected fraud - suspicious activity that has been noticed by the card issuer. If you use your credit card to make a large purchase, your credit card issuer may flag your transaction as suspicious. Similar to travel, any card activity that is outside of a cardholder's normal spending habits can trigger fraud protection and cause the issuer to freeze your account, leading to card rejection. This can be called the most common mistake of all cards, for example the cardholder has never bought an e-gift card and then you buy a CC and try to buy gifts with it in 95% of cases such debit will be labeled fraud attempt. But this is not a hopeless situation, more about it below.
Security Lock - The company providing the service has locked (or held) your card for the estimated amount of your bill.Some banks or credit unions use a lock by holding back some of the available credit on your credit card. This means you have less available to use until the block is lifted. This can be tracked on debit or credit cards when you see a card with a minus balance it is more than likely a hold.
Region Lock - simply trying to make a transaction in another city can cause problems with the card.In the event of a lock, call your issuer or set travel dates in Enroll with travel functionality to let them know where you will be traveling. This applies to domestic travel as well.
Disclaimer: The methods, tutorials, and guides provided are for educational purposes only. Any actions or activities related to the material contained within this group are solely your responsibility. Use this information at your own risk.
amazon:
The common passed around word about Amazon is that their security is too hard to bypass.
Now if you’ve read the last Amazon walkthrough then you’ve definitely read about the AI-set limit Doctrine was talking about.
Bad news, it’s still very relevant for this walkthrough as well. But don’t let that demotivate you from hitting Amazon hard.
What you need:
*You’ll need all of this and don’t half ass it or get lazy. I don’t want to hear “Nash your method didn’t work…” blah blah blah.*
Before you even lay your greasy hands on a CC make sure you have an aged Amazon.
Aged Amazon? Yes one that has a least 1+ orders and is a month and some old. If you don’t have one go find one.
I came across this just by being curious and also being told to test the cczauvr.in shop. I give them a rating of 9/10. Wishing they had a referral link i’d put it here instead of a direct link, i’m kinda salty lol.
Every single card bought was live except for one. I purchased 15 for $1 each with the validity rate of 70%-90%.
Make sure to also have temporary numbers with the same area code as the ch. You can achieve this by getting Google Voice or TextNow.
No proxy was used once during this process only LTE.
No VPN
No web version of Amazon, straight app.
Process:
1). Billing = ch
Shipping = drop
But make sure the name on the shipping is the ch name and when I said you’d need a temp number with the same area code as the ch this is where it comes to play. You add that number to your shipping don’t add your personal number and not the ch actual number. You’ll only add the ch actual number for when you add the cc, it’ll ask to put billing. Always double check and make sure you are typing everything correctly. I don’t know if it actually boosts the legitimacy of the purchase but makes it seem a little believable in my head I guess.
You don’t have to let the CC sit but I did unconsciously let it sit at times for 10mins all the way to 1 or 2 hrs.
2). Aim for the 4-8am or 7-11am windows. It’s better because you wake up next morning to the notif that your goods got delivered or is out for delivery.
I’ve had success with the 2-5pm windows too.
3). Start off by putting items priced below $50 in your cart and the cart total should be no more than $100. You’ll flag your account and possibly kill the card if immediately get greedy and add an iPhone 16 or add a $500 visa giftcard.
4). Confirm the order
*You may get a brief window
acting like they are about to give you OTP or 3DS verif but it’ll go away within 3 seconds or so.*
You’ll get a notification to your email with the confirmation order and if it did not cancel, or put your account on hold you’ve successfully carded Amazon.
Don’t order again until the last cart is either past the 1hr mark or has been marked shipped. You need to be a night owl to pretty much be awake during the “shipped” email.
Conclusion:
You may continue to use the same account with multiple CCs but understand that they’ll eventually close it maybe after 4-6 different uses of CCs.
I’ve had one account put on hold which can be bypassed by photoshopping a statement. The second account completely suspended, they will not send you a warning or even give you a follow up. Third account eventually got hit with ONE chargeback for one item out of 20+ i’ve done on that one account. All I did was permanently close the account and delete the data.
let the work be done for you.
ㅤ
What is Automation?
Automation in simple terms is getting a computer to do the work for you. Think of it like this: instead of you manually typing in card numbers addresses and all that stuff you write a script that does it all for you. It’s like having a digital slave that works 24/7 without b*tching or needing a coffee break.
For carding this usually means using tools that can mimic human actions on a website. Were talking about sh*t like Selenium. (https://www.selenium.dev/) Selenium is like a digital puppet master for browsers. You can write code that tells Selenium to open a browser go to a website fill out forms click buttons – basically do everything you’d do manually but way faster and without your clumsy ahh fingers. You can even run this stufft headless meaning the browser runs in the background without even popping up on your screen. It’s like magic but for criminals.
Then you got browser extensions like GoLess. (https://goless.com/) These are a bit simpler. You record your actions on a website once and then GoLess can replay those actions automatically. Think of it like a macro recorder on steroids. Its less flexible than Selenium but easier to set up if youre tech-illiterate. And for you advanced fuckers out there some antidetect browsers offer APIs that let you script and automate everything programmatically - but thats some next-level shit well cover another time.
Which Sites?
Now before you get all hot and bothered thinking you’re going to automate your way into r*bbing the Federal Reserve let’s get real. Remember all that sh*t I keep yapping about AI anti-fr**d? If there is one thing these systems hate more than fr**dsters it’s automated bots so what more if you’re launching an automated fr**d bot? Lmao. They’ll sniff you out especially if you’re hitting up big secure sites. Trying to automate carding on Amazon (https://amazon.com/) or some shit right off the bat? You’re going to get flagged and banned fast.
For this little tutorial we’re gonna aim for something softer something, less defended. Think Spotify. (https://spotify.com/) Yeah Spotify. Easy target decent payout if you scale it. The beauty of automation is in the scale. You are not going to get rich h*tting one account at a time. But automate the process and suddenly you can pump hundreds even thousands of cards and emails through the system. Thats where the real cheddar is.
Ever wonder how those cheap Spotify HBO Netflix account sellers do it? Automation baby. They’re doing exactly this stuff. The only difference is they’re often using garbage BIN generators and for even thinner margins. But hey if you wanna go full cheapskate and use BIN generators nobody’s stopping you.
Requirements:
Cards: You aint gonna card stuff without cards right? Even old dusty publicly shared cards can work for Spotify since they aint exactly picky. If you’re feeling fancy you can even use BINs to generate cards. Up to you Picasso.
Email Domain (or just freebie emails): You an email domain that can receive all the emails to your catch-all address to sign up for a lot of Spotify. If you’re too lazy to get your own domain for emails just use disposable email sites like yopmail.com (https://yopmail.com/) or mailnesia.com. (https://mailnesia.com/)
Google Sheets Account: Yeah Google Sheets. Were gonna use it to store all your juicy emails and card details.
Rotating Proxy Service: This is optional since for Spotify they tend to timeout and keep declining transactions from an IP with 5 subsequent declines. You need proxies that rotate so Spotify doesn’t flag your ahh for using the same IP for a million signups. Make sure the proxies are from the same country as the cards you’re using.
Setup:
1. Google Sheets - Your Carding HQ:
Create a new Google Sheet. Name it something edgy like "TotallyLegitSpotifyAccounts"
- In the first row put these exact headers. Don’t mess this up or the script will choke:
- Now populate that sheet with your email and card details. One row per card/email combo. Make sure you fill in all the columns even if you’re not using AVS cards and you gotta make stuff up for address city state zip.
Proxy Setup - Hide Your Ugly IP:
2. Configure your browser to use your rotating proxy service. How you do this depends on your proxy provider. Figure it out or Google it. If you can’t even set up a proxy you’re in the wrong game.
3. GoLess - Your Automation Minion:
Head over to https://goless.com/ and sign up for a free account.
Install the GoLess Chrome extension from: https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl. (https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/goless-browser-automation/ghlmiigebgipgagnhlanjmmniefbfihl)
Install that .
Grant Browser Permissions: When you install the extension it’ll probably ask for permissions. Just allow it. It needs to control your browser to automate stuff.
4. Import the Workflow - The Magic Recipe:
- Download the workflow I cooked up for you right below. Yes I did all that stuff for you.
- Save it as a .json file. In GoLess click on "Workflows" then "Import Workflow." Find the file you just downloaded and import it.
PrivateBin
Visit this link to see the note. Giving the URL to anyone allows them to access the note, too.
5. Google Sheets:
Configure the Google Sheet Block:
In GoLessopen the workflow you just imported. Find the "Google Sheet" block in the workflow (it should be obvious). In the settings for that block youll see a field for "Google Sheet ID." Go back to your Google Sheet URL. It’ll look something like this:
Copy the: YOUR_SHEET_ID_HERE
part and paste it into the "Google Sheet ID" field in GoLess.
Preview Data - Sanity Check: Click the "Preview Data" button in the Google Sheet block. If you did everything right it should show you the data from your Google Sheet. Make sure "Use first row as keys" is checked. If it’s all f*cked up you messed up the headers or the sheet ID.
6. Run the Script - Let the Money Printer Brrr:
Once everything is configured and youve double-checked your shit hit the "Start" button in GoLess.
Now sit back and watch. Your browser should automatically open go to Spotify create an account purchase a subscription using the card details from your Google Sheet and save the successful account details to a text file.
If it works congrats youre officially automating your way to (small-time) riches. Now you can load up that Google Sheet with hundreds of cards and emails leave it running and watch the (tiny) profits roll in.
CARDING FORUMS:
Darkstash.com
Enclave.cc
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other threads: https://looksmax.org/threads/how-to-steal-websites-gta.1618827/https:/
/looksmax.org/threads/how-to-know-if-ur-being-hammed-niggerfraud-gta.1617400/#post-23047971
lmk
