cemkii
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RETINOIDS
Retinoids are vitamin a derived products that are used to treat acne, hyper-pigmentation, texture, and many other things. They form in a class of strength going retinol -> retinal -> retinoid (prescription strength). The most useful is retinoid so this guide mostly explains prescription retinoids. Retinoids can come in topical and oral form. Although, oral is better for acne due to its systemic properties it does not affect texture as strongly as a topical retinoid due to topical directly altering collagen and skin renewal cycles.
Which retinoid for you?
I will now go over in detail each retinoid. Results vary per retinoid and in order I will go from strongest to weakest and what each one does. Do not stack retinoids!!
TL;DR
Each product has its own usage do your own research before using some are better than others in certain aspects. Also if youve had severe acne id recommend a laser treatment after youve finished a retinoid but please wait although new studies say it does not make a difference it can worsen skin the point of a laser is to benefit skin quality where retinoid cannot fix such as pitted scars and boxcar
Any questions drop a reply ive done azelaic acid, tretinoin, isotretinoin, co2 laser and plenty of cope and experience in this.
(updated guide from old one)
Retinoids are vitamin a derived products that are used to treat acne, hyper-pigmentation, texture, and many other things. They form in a class of strength going retinol -> retinal -> retinoid (prescription strength). The most useful is retinoid so this guide mostly explains prescription retinoids. Retinoids can come in topical and oral form. Although, oral is better for acne due to its systemic properties it does not affect texture as strongly as a topical retinoid due to topical directly altering collagen and skin renewal cycles.
Which retinoid for you?
I will now go over in detail each retinoid. Results vary per retinoid and in order I will go from strongest to weakest and what each one does. Do not stack retinoids!!
Isotretinoin is an oral systemic retinoid it is prescription only and the most effective way to clear acne. Isotretinoin is mainly used for cystic and treatment resistant acne. Isotretinoin shrinks sebaceous glands directly linking to a lower sebum production. It works in cumulative doses, doses are measured via body weight both for daily dose and total cumulative dose. The formula reads as follows; cumulative 120-150mg per kg of bodyweight, daily if you want lower risk exposure via microdosing use 0.3-0.5mg per kg of body weight daily, if you want clinical results with moderate risk exposure it is recommended to take 0.5-1mg per kg of body weight. If you do not take it consistently do not expect results here. Isotretinoin is relatively cheap and a very high roi in acne treatment. I'd personally recommend not to jump above 100mg daily better to go for a long period rather than shorter. At least 4-6 months of usage is required for results, however keep in mind treatment is not permanent and has chances of relapse. For risks and how to mitigate them see below
RISKS + HOW TO TREAT
Sun sensitivity: daily spf 50 (all retinoids require this)
Liver strain: do not drink + do not take vitamin a supplements + take omega 3 supplement
Nosebleeds: isotonic nasal spray + petroleum jelly in nostrils + naseptin (form of antiseptic)
Damaged lips: petroleum jelly > humectants > peptides
Dry eyes: reduce contact usage + artificial tears
Dermatitis (redness flush): lower dosage + repair skin barrier + reduce heat exposure + steroid
Initial flare: start with a lower dose but not universal
Dull skin: humectants + lower dose
try not to get pregnant as well (difficult yes)
Refer to skin barrier to further outline how to protect worsening here from dryness (dryness can also affect hair).
RISKS + HOW TO TREAT
Sun sensitivity: daily spf 50 (all retinoids require this)
Liver strain: do not drink + do not take vitamin a supplements + take omega 3 supplement
Nosebleeds: isotonic nasal spray + petroleum jelly in nostrils + naseptin (form of antiseptic)
Damaged lips: petroleum jelly > humectants > peptides
Dry eyes: reduce contact usage + artificial tears
Dermatitis (redness flush): lower dosage + repair skin barrier + reduce heat exposure + steroid
Initial flare: start with a lower dose but not universal
Dull skin: humectants + lower dose
try not to get pregnant as well (difficult yes)
Refer to skin barrier to further outline how to protect worsening here from dryness (dryness can also affect hair).
Tazarotene (often referred to as a superior substitute to tretinoin) is a topical form of retinoid that accelerates epidermal turnover in turn boosting collagen production and preventing acne. It is most effective in collagen and skin remodelling due to its potency however although it is amazing for smoother skin, reduction of fine lines, correction of discolouration and unclogging pores it is one of the harshest retinoids on skin barrier. Apply all over the face do not skip areas aside from under eyes as the retinoid is too strong here. If you've never used a retinoid before start with 0.05% of tazarotene once you build up a tolerance or have used a strong retinoid previously use 0.1%. To start usage treat it slowly like all retinoids start 2-3x a week then every other day then finally every day. I recommend to use it nightly as it makes your skin much more photosensitive and causes dryness quite harshly. Side effects are usually seen earlier on compared to other topical retinoids due to its strength. For risks see below.
RISKS + HOW TO TREAT
all retinoids have the similar side effects so they will be repeated
Dermatitis (redness flushing): skin barrier repair + lower dose/ frequency + avoid heat exposure
purge phase: again impossible to escape common but not guaranteed
Sun sensitivity: daily spf 50 (more important here compared to systemic usage)
Flaking peeling: major problem use a fatty moisturiser twice daily not just once + do not overwash your face
Misc: Refer to skin barrier
RISKS + HOW TO TREAT
all retinoids have the similar side effects so they will be repeated
Dermatitis (redness flushing): skin barrier repair + lower dose/ frequency + avoid heat exposure
purge phase: again impossible to escape common but not guaranteed
Sun sensitivity: daily spf 50 (more important here compared to systemic usage)
Flaking peeling: major problem use a fatty moisturiser twice daily not just once + do not overwash your face
Misc: Refer to skin barrier
Tretinoin is one of the most commonly used retinoid topicals it balances both acne control and texture it is similar to tazarotene however side effects are much easier to tolerate and mitigate here. Tretinoin works by accelerating skin turn over like all retinoids. It comes in 3 common forms 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1% like all retinoids you should always start at a lower dose if you are new to retinoids. Start 2-3x a week then, every other day then, everyday. Apply all over the face do not skip areas aside from under eyes as the retinoid is too strong here. I'd highly recommend doing this nightly due to skin photo sensitivity and dryness spiking after usage. For risks see below. (repeated yes dnc)
RISKS + HOW TO TREAT
all retinoids have the similar side effects so they will be repeated
Dermatitis (redness flushing): skin barrier repair + lower dose/ frequency + avoid heat exposure
purge phase: again impossible to escape common but not guaranteed
Sun sensitivity: daily spf 50 (more important here compared to systemic usage)
Flaking peeling: major problem use a fatty moisturiser twice daily not just once + do not overwash your face
Misc: Refer to skin barrier
RISKS + HOW TO TREAT
all retinoids have the similar side effects so they will be repeated
Dermatitis (redness flushing): skin barrier repair + lower dose/ frequency + avoid heat exposure
purge phase: again impossible to escape common but not guaranteed
Sun sensitivity: daily spf 50 (more important here compared to systemic usage)
Flaking peeling: major problem use a fatty moisturiser twice daily not just once + do not overwash your face
Misc: Refer to skin barrier
The weakest of the few listed is going to be the retinal for this example I will just be using what it does and what it treats not specific formulations and brands. Retinals are most commonly used for fine lines under eyes, mild collagen boosting, fix where skin is thin and an overall good daily usage for upkeep after using a stronger retinoid. Retinals do not have any strong side effects like seen above and are safe to use casually personally I have been using this since stopping isotretinoin and it helps with upkeep although some do use a weaker tretinoin strength 2-3x a week for this. No risks no need to type out.
This is the most important of all to look at while on any form of retinoid whether that be oral or topical just a quick checklist and some examples i've personally used and others that are strongly recommended.
SUNSCREEN
Ultimately non negotiable due to skin renewal from retinoids your skin will become photosensitive meaning you must wear any form of sun protection. spf 50 is best here although can get similar like 40+ 50 is best though. If you do not wear sunscreen do not expect to see no side effects and fast clean results.
products used: Uvmune anthelios, beauty of joseon, cerave spf50 moisturiser, eltaMD UV clear
MOISTURISER
It is important to moisturise here on any form of retinoid basic skincare anyways as even the weakest strength retinoid can completely alter your skin type. One trick you can do with a retinoid that helped me not have flaking and drying is moisturise -> apply retinoid product -> moisturise again wait 5-10 minutes after each step for optimal absorbency.
products used: pyunkang yul moisture cream, medik8 total moisture daily, cicaplast balm/baume, byoma barrier+ (many others i have probably missed but ultimately depends on how your skin reacts some are fine with some products others don't it is not universal)
FACIAL CLEANSING
It is important never to over wash your face while on retinoids as it can worsen damage and ultimately make your product from working to cope. Personally this is not universal so best not to name any products just wash once a day before bed and that's all look for low ph and non stripping basically that.
KEY NOTE
Most problems arise from skin barrier make sure you actually follow steps and not fuck up your barrier on the first week
SUNSCREEN
Ultimately non negotiable due to skin renewal from retinoids your skin will become photosensitive meaning you must wear any form of sun protection. spf 50 is best here although can get similar like 40+ 50 is best though. If you do not wear sunscreen do not expect to see no side effects and fast clean results.
products used: Uvmune anthelios, beauty of joseon, cerave spf50 moisturiser, eltaMD UV clear
MOISTURISER
It is important to moisturise here on any form of retinoid basic skincare anyways as even the weakest strength retinoid can completely alter your skin type. One trick you can do with a retinoid that helped me not have flaking and drying is moisturise -> apply retinoid product -> moisturise again wait 5-10 minutes after each step for optimal absorbency.
products used: pyunkang yul moisture cream, medik8 total moisture daily, cicaplast balm/baume, byoma barrier+ (many others i have probably missed but ultimately depends on how your skin reacts some are fine with some products others don't it is not universal)
FACIAL CLEANSING
It is important never to over wash your face while on retinoids as it can worsen damage and ultimately make your product from working to cope. Personally this is not universal so best not to name any products just wash once a day before bed and that's all look for low ph and non stripping basically that.
KEY NOTE
Most problems arise from skin barrier make sure you actually follow steps and not fuck up your barrier on the first week
TL;DR
Each product has its own usage do your own research before using some are better than others in certain aspects. Also if youve had severe acne id recommend a laser treatment after youve finished a retinoid but please wait although new studies say it does not make a difference it can worsen skin the point of a laser is to benefit skin quality where retinoid cannot fix such as pitted scars and boxcar
Any questions drop a reply ive done azelaic acid, tretinoin, isotretinoin, co2 laser and plenty of cope and experience in this.
(updated guide from old one)
