Skincare Guide

[benignice]

thanks dude - what do you mean by "nanoparticles are going to be the least obvious"? meaning some will leave more residue than others? and how come you aren't worried about the xeno estrogens?

They'll leave less of a white cast than non-nano.
I've simply not seen enough evidence that they are problematic in humans at the levels (and route of administration) at which we use them in cosmetics.

 

[6ft8InTheNetherlands]

isnt sunblock full of xeno estrogens and terrible for men to use? @benignice

yes.

i use thinkbaby spf50 zinc oxide

 

[gymislife]

@benignice i really wonder what your skincare routine is and how does your skin look like

 

[ritalinredemption]

yes.

i use thinkbaby spf50 zinc oxide

thanks dude

 

[benignice]

@benignice i really wonder what your skincare routine is and how does your skin look like

Hahaha. My routine changes up fairly frequently since I'm always testing new things. As for my skin, it's usually pretty good- I've always had very dry skin and never really had an issue with acne. Right now I'm dealing with the hangover from a couple of allergic reactions I had but other than that, nothing overly interesting to report.

 

[Seth Walsh]

Anyone know anything about niacinamide inhibiting SIRT1?

It's nothing to worry about. It's only a very temporary inhibitor of SIRT1 as NAD+ levels need to drop when NAM is present. NAM is Niacinamide and a precursor to NAD+ just like NMN is. The reason NMN isn't classed as a SIRT1 inhibitor is because it's transported immediately into the cells through the Slc12a8 enzyme. Once you have intracellular NMN, it has no other choice but to bind to other NMN molecules and form NAD+, because you need energy. NAM doesn't have a unique transporter but it's converted to NMN through the Nicotinamide Phosphoribosyltransferase enzyme and then the NMN can enter the cell to form NAD+.

NAM is detected as being present in your body, but can't directly enter any cells. The only reason NAM acts as a temporary SIRT1 inhibitor is because it facilitates NAD+ redox homeostasis.

Essentially, your body is prepared to create more NAD+ since it detects the extracellular NAM. The Sirtuin proteins' normal functions are temporarily stopped because they're needed to separate the NMN molecules by cleaving them off of NAD+, in preparation for the NAM to turn to NMN through NAMPT and the NMN to enter the cells through Slc12a8 before binding to another NMN molecule to form the Dinucleotides, the NAD+.

B3/Niacinamide is used as a Sirtuin inhibitor though, but the inhibition is misunderstood. It's not as if it's shutting off the Sirtuins' function for no reason. The only reason SIRT1 is "inhibited" is because it's needed to break apart the NAD+ because it needs to if the increased number of NMN molecules ever want to form NAD+.

NAD+ can't be made outside of the cells, and weirdly, the NMN entering the cells can't just bind to eachother, they need to find an NMN molecule that was formerly NAD+ but broken apart by the Sirtuins.

If you injected B3/Niacinamide directly into your cells, there would be no Sirtuin inhibition.

 

[Deleted member 656]

It's nothing to worry about. It's only a very temporary inhibitor of SIRT1 as NAD+ levels need to drop when NAM is present. NAM is Niacinamide and a precursor to NAD+ just like NMN is. The reason NMN isn't classed as a SIRT1 inhibitor is because it's transported immediately into the cells through the Slc12a8 enzyme. Once you have intracellular NMN, it has no other choice but to bind to other NMN molecules and form NAD+, because you need energy. NAM doesn't have a unique transporter but it's converted to NMN through the Nicotinamide Phosphoribosyltransferase enzyme and then the NMN can enter the cell to form NAD+.

NAM is detected as being present in your body, but can't directly enter any cells. The only reason NAM acts as a temporary SIRT1 inhibitor is because it facilitates NAD+ redox homeostasis.

Essentially, your body is prepared to create more NAD+ since it detects the extracellular NAM. The Sirtuin proteins' normal functions are temporarily stopped because they're needed to separate the NMN molecules by cleaving them off of NAD+, in preparation for the NAM to turn to NMN through NAMPT and the NMN to enter the cells through Slc12a8 before binding to another NMN molecule to form the Dinucleotides, the NAD+.

B3/Niacinamide is used as a Sirtuin inhibitor though, but the inhibition is misunderstood. It's not as if it's shutting off the Sirtuins' function for no reason. The only reason SIRT1 is "inhibited" is because it's needed to break apart the NAD+ because it needs to if the increased number of NMN molecules ever want to form NAD+.

NAD+ can't be made outside of the cells, and weirdly, the NMN entering the cells can't just bind to eachother, they need to find an NMN molecule that was formerly NAD+ but broken apart by the Sirtuins.

If you injected B3/Niacinamide directly into your cells, there would be no Sirtuin inhibition.

Sky high IQ, thank you very much

 

[benignice]

whats ur opinion on INFODOALN?

I've never used it personally, but it contains retinyl acetate I think? Should be a gentle start to retinoids.

 

[Deleted member 3990]

Does sheabutter mog coconutoil in moisturizing skin and/or hair ?

 

[benignice]

Does sheabutter mog coconutoil in moisturizing skin and/or hair ?

Personally, I prefer shea, plenty of people prefer coconut, plenty of people can't use either. Whichever your skin prefers, use.

 

[Deleted member 3990]

Personally, I prefer shea, plenty of people prefer coconut, plenty of people can't use either. Whichever your skin prefers, use.

would it be good for hair moisturization ?

and what mogs; lotion or cream or gel ?

 

[Ataru]

how should I approach fading away my hyper pigmentation scars, can I combine both hydroquinone and Retin-A in a routine?

 

[benignice]

would it be good for hair moisturization ?

and what mogs; lotion or cream or gel ?

It will help to moisturise, yes. It could weigh the hair down and make it look greasy though so be careful on that.
Most hair gels are very alcohol heavy so will dry out the hair- stick to creams for styling if you don't want to dry it out. I tend to like hair masks best though for keeping hair in really good condition.

how should I approach fading away my hyper pigmentation scars, can I combine both hydroquinone and Retin-A in a routine?

You can, yes. You can get prescription creams which are a hydroquinone, tretinoin and corticosteroid combination which tend to be the big guns when it comes to pigmentation.

 

[Lars]

fastest/best way to get rid of this fuckedup hyperpigementation

 

[benignice]

fastest/best way to get rid of this fuckedup hyperpigementation View attachment 239398

As far as topicals go: niacinamide, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, retinoids, vitamin C, hydroquinone. If you can, see a dermatologist or facialist.

Edit to add sunscreen is the main thing.

 

[Deleted member 3990]

It will help to moisturise, yes. It could weigh the hair down and make it look greasy though so be careful on that.
Most hair gels are very alcohol heavy so will dry out the hair- stick to creams for styling if you don't want to dry it out. I tend to like hair masks best though for keeping hair in really good condition.


You can, yes. You can get prescription creams which are a hydroquinone, tretinoin and corticosteroid combination which tend to be the big guns when it comes to pigmentation.

How accurate is this:

"If your hair is wet, that means you have to condition it," Townsend says. "Over time, from coloring and heat styling, strands start to get thinner at the bottom." Conditioner helps replace the lipids and proteins inside the hair shaft, "as well as seal the cuticle to help prevent more damage from happening so that you can get your hair to grow longer and look healthier," he says.

 

[benignice]

How accurate is this:

"If your hair is wet, that means you have to condition it," Townsend says. "Over time, from coloring and heat styling, strands start to get thinner at the bottom." Conditioner helps replace the lipids and proteins inside the hair shaft, "as well as seal the cuticle to help prevent more damage from happening so that you can get your hair to grow longer and look healthier," he says.

Without getting too nitty gritty, yeah that's about it.

 

[Deleted member 3990]

Without getting too nitty gritty, yeah that's about it.

ok

I always underestimated hydrization

together with oxygen saturation, two of the most overlooked but very important things

 

[Thanos]

Does one have to wait for 20-30 minutes after using retinoid ? I've bought one from The Ordinary, and they do not recommend this on their website.
Does one have to avoid eye area when applying actives from your skincare routine ? My eyes are wet after finishing my PM routine (I suspect oil to cause this but I'm not sure).

 

[benignice]

Does one have to wait for 20-30 minutes after using retinoid ? I've bought one from The Ordinary, and they do not recommend this on their website.
Does one have to avoid eye area when applying actives from your skincare routine ? My eyes are wet after finishing my PM routine (I suspect oil to cause this but I'm not sure).

Yes, wait if you can. If you can't and need to apply moisturiser straight away, don't worry.
It depends which actives. Bare in mind that a) the skin around your eyes is incredibly thin and b) you don't want to be getting shit into your eyes and product will migrate slightly after application (which is likely why you're seeing product around your eyes without having specifically put it there).

 

[Thanos]

Yes, wait if you can. If you can't and need to apply moisturiser straight away, don't worry.
It depends which actives. Bare in mind that a) the skin around your eyes is incredibly thin and b) you don't want to be getting shit into your eyes and product will migrate slightly after application (which is likely why you're seeing product around your eyes without having specifically put it there).

Okay. Since I use you them all, can you tell me which actives I shouldn't apply near eye area ?

 

[benignice]

Okay. Since I use you them all, can you tell me which actives I shouldn't apply near eye area ?

It depends on what your own skin can take. If your skin can take a tretinoin up around the eye, then go for it (just please don't put it in your eye and be aware of migration). Lots of products legally have to say something along the lines of "avoid contact with eyes" but realistically, if your skin can take it, go for it (carefully).

 

[benignice]

Posted a little bit extra in the guide, specifically answering some questions I've had. As always, if you've got any questions feel free to ask.

 

[Thanos]

In your guide, you recommend using retinoids on evening before any active. But in TO website they recommend using their retinoid products after water based serums. Why ? (I personally use their niacinamide product (water based serum) 30 minutes after their granactive retinoid 5 %.) And does waiting a little (like 10-30 minutes) between use of each serum enhance their efficiency/penetration in skin ?

 

[benignice]

In your guide, you recommend using retinoids on evening before any active. But in TO website they recommend using their retinoid products after water based serums. Why ? (I personally use their niacinamide product (water based serum) 30 minutes after their granactive retinoid 5 %.) And does waiting a little (like 10-30 minutes) between use of each serum enhance their efficiency/penetration in skin ?

It's really just down to personal preference and formulation. With TO, a lot of their retinoids are in an oily base so any water based products would need to go on first in that case. I tend to like to get the retinoid directly on to clean skin but it's entirely up to you.
No, it doesn't help penetration. What it might help is allowing one product to absorb before you put another on so that things like pH levels don't affect each other too much.

 

[Seth Walsh]

I've never used it personally, but it contains retinyl acetate I think? Should be a gentle start to retinoids.

It's a good occlusive too. Yeah it contains retinyl. BTW @benignice thanks for sharing your knowledge on skincare. How long on average do you think purging from Adapalene lasts?

 

[Ultramental]

thoughts on beta carotene on white guys?will it help to give a tan?

 

[benignice]

It's a good occlusive too. Yeah it contains retinyl. BTW @benignice thanks for sharing your knowledge on skincare. How long on average do you think purging from Adapalene lasts?

No probs, glad I can help. And I've never used it personally, but from the accounts I've heard, around 6-8 weeks?

thoughts on beta carotene on white guys?will it help to give a tan?

Supplements not my area, sorry bro.

 

[Seth Walsh]

No probs, glad I can help. And I've never used it personally, but from the accounts I've heard, around 6-8 weeks?

Supplements not my area, sorry bro.

Thanks man! I switched from Tazorac to Adapalene as Taz made the purge start quicker, so hopefully it can be over in ~2 weeks if I'm lucky

 

[benignice]

Thanks man! I switched from Tazorac to Adapalene as Taz made the purge start quicker, so hopefully it can be over in ~2 weeks if I'm lucky

Hope it works out for you bro.

 

[Rope'n'Roll]

Hello @benignice and thank you again for your invaluable help. Could you share some thoughts on the perfect skin aging or compile some sort of "Winemiring guide"? I'm 32 and I have really great skin, so folks rate me 20-24. I only have barely noticeable fine lines under my eyes and in the nasolabial area and want to keep them at bay. Some inputs: never had acne, normal skin (somewhat dry in winter), never drank coffee (caffeine inhibits collagen synthesis - that's why my skin is still so good I believe). My skincare routine will be:
AM
- Cleanse
- Vitamin C
- HA
- Moisturiser
- SPF if needed
PM
- Cleanse
- Glycolic Acid 7% (daily) + Salicylic Acid 2% (2-3 times a week)
- Retinol 1% (once a week and slowly build up to every night)
- Niacinamide
- HA
- Moisturiser
Anything else I can use?
I'm thinking about adding Alpha Lipoic Acid and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (The Ordinary Argireline Solution 10%) to my routine . What's your opinion on those extras?

 

[benignice]

Hello @benignice and thank you again for your invaluable help. Could you share some thoughts on the perfect skin aging or compile some sort of "Winemiring guide"? I'm 32 and I have really great skin, so folks rate me 20-24. I only have barely noticeable fine lines under my eyes and in the nasolabial area and want to keep them at bay. Some inputs: never had acne, normal skin (somewhat dry in winter), never drank coffee (caffeine inhibits collagen synthesis - that's why my skin is still so good I believe). My skincare routine will be:
AM
- Cleanse
- Vitamin C
- HA
- Moisturiser
- SPF if needed
PM
- Cleanse
- Glycolic Acid 7% (daily) + Salicylic Acid 2% (2-3 times a week)
- Retinol 1% (once a week and slowly build up to every night)
- Niacinamide
- HA
- Moisturiser
Anything else I can use?
I'm thinking about adding Alpha Lipoic Acid and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (The Ordinary Argireline Solution 10%) to my routine . What's your opinion on those extras?

I'm not sure what you'd want to be in such a guide other than what I've already talked about but I'd be glad to if theres extra info to add. Honestly, your skin being good is likely very little down to lack of caffeine intake and mostly down to genetics and looking after yourself.
Routines look good. What do you mean by SPF if needed?
Alpha Lipoic Acid- its a good antioxidant but can be a little harsh, especially in high concentrations. Not my personal favourite but certainly not bad.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8- quite frankly I think that the manufacturers are promising above what it can reasonably provide. It's not going to make your face fall off but don't expect it to make your face look frozen in time.

 

[Rope'n'Roll]

What do you mean by SPF if needed?

Thanks. Typically I do not go out every day. Should I still apply SPF while staying at home? BTW I'm Fitzpatrick II and never expose myself to direct sunlight too much. Maybe it contributed to my skin quality.
What antioxidants or peptides can you suggest? Also, is it OK to have both AHA+BHA and Hyaluronic acid at the same time?

 

[benignice]

Thanks. Typically I do not go out every day. Should I still apply SPF while staying at home? BTW I'm Fitzpatrick II and never expose myself to direct sunlight too much. Maybe it contributed to my skin quality.
What antioxidants or peptides can you suggest? Also, is it OK to have both AHA+BHA and Hyaluronic acid at the same time?

If you're in front of a window, then yes. If not, don't worry about it.
My personal favourite antioxidants are vitamins C and E, ferulic acid, resveratrol, polyphenols, CoQ10. Peptides is a massively complicated area- I'm not at my PC right now but once I get back I'll reply again with a better answer to this one.
Yeah you're good with an AHA/BHA and hyaluronic. Be careful with the AHA and BHA that you don't go overboard but if your skin is handling it well then you should be fine.

 

[benignice]

What antioxidants or peptides can you suggest?

Okey dokey, back to peptides.
Lets get this straight, most peptides are just too large to get into the skin so lose any ideas of them sinking into your skin and holding your skin up like scaffolding. What they may do however is to stimulate or signal for change within the skin.
When it comes to my particular favourites off the top of my head (in no particular order):
- Matrixyl 3000
- GHK-Cu (although this is technically a complex)
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
- Pentapeptide-59
- Palmitoyl dipeptide-10
- Azelaoyl bis-dipeptide-10
- sh-oligopeptide-1

 

[Seth Walsh]

Okey dokey, back to peptides.
Lets get this straight, most peptides are just too large to get into the skin so lose any ideas of them sinking into your skin and holding your skin up like scaffolding. What they may do however is to stimulate or signal for change within the skin.
When it comes to my particular favourites off the top of my head (in no particular order):
- Matrixyl 3000
- GHK-Cu (although this is technically a complex)
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
- Pentapeptide-59
- Palmitoyl dipeptide-10
- Azelaoyl bis-dipeptide-10
- sh-oligopeptide-1

@benignice What's your opinion on Agireline, Pentapeptide-18, syn-coll / syn-ack / syn-tacks, SNAP-8 / SNAP-25 and DMAE ?

 

[benignice]

@benignice What's your opinion on Agireline, Pentapeptide-18, syn-coll / syn-ack / syn-tacks, SNAP-8 / SNAP-25 and DMAE ?

Fucking ay, making me actually think on a Sunday evening.
Argireline (I assume this is what you meant)- Its fine. Not a favourite but not useless.
Pentapeptide-18- Again, its fine.
Syn-coll, Syn-ake (again, I'm assuming this is what you meant, I've not heard of syn-ack?), Syn-tacks- I like them. I think the stuff that DSM are doing is really cool and they've got some great people there.
SNAP-8- See above answer but substitute Lipotec for DSM.
DMAE- not a fan. Not worth the difficulty with formulation.

 

[Seth Walsh]

Fucking ay, making me actually think on a Sunday evening.
Argireline (I assume this is what you meant)- Its fine. Not a favourite but not useless.
Pentapeptide-18- Again, its fine.
Syn-coll, Syn-ake (again, I'm assuming this is what you meant, I've not heard of syn-ack?), Syn-tacks- I like them. I think the stuff that DSM are doing is really cool and they've got some great people there.
SNAP-8- See above answer but substitute Lipotec for DSM.
DMAE- not a fan. Not worth the difficulty with formulation.

Thanks so much for the helpful response! Yeah I meant to say Syn-Ake and Argireline

 

[Eduardo DOV]

what do you have to say about this?:

 

[benignice]

what do you have to say about this?:
View attachment 257684

The reasoning is worded a bit weirdly, but I agree with the sentiment. Also, if you're mixing your sunscreen with with moisturiser you're almost certainly not going to end up using enough sunscreen.

 

[Eduardo DOV]

The reasoning is worded a bit weirdly, but I agree with the sentiment. Also, if you're mixing your sunscreen with with moisturiser you're almost certainly not going to end up using enough sunscreen.

I meant about using the sunscreen ~ half an hour after using the moisturizer.

what would be the difference between that to use at the same time when it comes to compounds of one react with those of the other?

 

[benignice]

I meant about using the sunscreen ~ half an hour after using the moisturizer.

what would be the difference between that to use at the same time when it comes to compounds of one react with those of the other?

Because once a moisturiser (or anything else for that matter) has been on the skin for half an hour its likely mostly absorbed so you've not got too much of it actually left on the skin for the sunscreen to interact with.

 

[Eduardo DOV]

Because once a moisturiser (or anything else for that matter) has been on the skin for half an hour its likely mostly absorbed so you've not got too much of it actually left on the skin for the sunscreen to interact with.

I didnt know this.
thanks.
i want a sunscreen that is already a moisturizer, do u think its a good idea?

 

[middayshowers]

Found this guide again and had to comment bc it's so good ngl. I've decided to get a vitamin C Serum with hyaluronic acid but I was wondering about the timings of it's application - Right now in the mornings I have a shower and then put moisturizer on, when I get the vit c should I put that on right after the shower and then put on the moisturizer 20 mins later? and also what moisturizer + suncream combinations do you recommend?

 

[Effortless]

Skincare Guide

Skincare Guide The meat and potatoes will be in black and the additional science-y bits in red so if you want to skip the added stuff you can. Product recs are at the bottom of each section (I’ve tried to get options for various price ranges but I’ve only included products which either I or some...

docs.google.com

This guide is focusing on products and general concepts since that's my wheelhouse. There's a ton of other people that can help you out with supplements etc if that's what you want to know.
It's as a google doc so I can add more info as and when. If there's anything specific that you want to be in there, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Anything about diet that could help get even better skin?

 

[benignice]

Found this guide again and had to comment bc it's so good ngl. I've decided to get a vitamin C Serum with hyaluronic acid but I was wondering about the timings of it's application - Right now in the mornings I have a shower and then put moisturizer on, when I get the vit c should I put that on right after the shower and then put on the moisturizer 20 mins later? and also what moisturizer + suncream combinations do you recommend?

Glad its helpful for you. Yep, vitamin C after the shower, then just put moisturiser on after its absorbed- you don't need to wait.
As for the moisturiser/sunscreen combination question, it absolutely depends on your own skin and what you prefer. In terms of safety and interactions you should be fine to use whichever ones together.

Anything about diet that could help get even better skin?

Diet really isn't my area quite honestly. The main thing I'd say is if you're having issues, figure out what your triggers are and avoid them

 

[siliconvalleycel]

@benignice
Sorry if this is too much to ask, but can you rate this product as a morning moisturizer pls
Aqua, Glycerol, Niacinamide, Distarch Phosphate, Propanediol, Oleic Acid, Scloretium Gum, Sorbitan Olivate, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Xylityl Sesquicaprylate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Benzoate, Decyl Glucoside, Linoleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Bisabolol, Lauryl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Hyaluronic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Iron Oxides, Anhydroxylitol, Algin, Glyceryl Undecylenate,Tocopheryl Acetate, Bentonite, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caffeine, Mica, Bismuth Oxychloride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Calcium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Resveratrol, Sodium Metabisulfite

I've highlighted all the memes I know (Niacinamide, Vit C, Vit E and Hyaluronic Acid).

 

[benignice]

@benignice
Sorry if this is too much to ask, but can you rate this product as a morning moisturizer pls
Aqua, Glycerol, Niacinamide, Distarch Phosphate, Propanediol, Oleic Acid, Scloretium Gum, Sorbitan Olivate, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Xylityl Sesquicaprylate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Benzoate, Decyl Glucoside, Linoleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Bisabolol, Lauryl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Hyaluronic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Iron Oxides, Anhydroxylitol, Algin, Glyceryl Undecylenate,Tocopheryl Acetate, Bentonite, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caffeine, Mica, Bismuth Oxychloride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Calcium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Resveratrol, Sodium Metabisulfite

I've highlighted all the memes I know (Niacinamide, Vit C, Vit E and Hyaluronic Acid).

Not too much to ask at all. Seems pretty good to me. It's going to be more hydrating than moisturising, but purely from the ingredients it seems pretty good.
Side note, is it the Sallve Antioxidant Moisturiser?

 

[siliconvalleycel]

Side note, is it the Sallve Antioxidant Moisturiser?

Are you a wizard? I thought it would be too niche to list a (seemingly) Brazilian company
How would you rank their cleanser?

I've adopted a skincare routine using both products for the last month or so.
You may chastise me for this but I haven't been using sunscreen, but now I'm redeeming myself so I picked up Bioré perfect milk, paired with their oil cleanser to upgrade my routine to a double cleanse. As a sidenote, their (Bioré) oil cleanser is fucking phenomenal, I've never felt anything like it and smells nice too. Those Koreans sure know what they're doing.

 

[benignice]

Are you a wizard? I thought it would be too niche to list a (seemingly) Brazilian company
How would you rank their cleanser?

I've adopted a skincare routine using both products for the last month or so.
You may chastise me for this but I haven't been using sunscreen, but now I'm redeeming myself so I picked up Bioré perfect milk, paired with their oil cleanser to upgrade my routine to a double cleanse. As a sidenote, their (Bioré) oil cleanser is fucking phenomenal, I've never felt anything like it and smells nice too. Those Koreans sure know what they're doing.

I'm not a wizard, I just used CosDNA lol.
I've not used their cleanser either, but it actually looks like a really decent formula.

Yeah the Biore sunscreens are great (for the most part, I've not tried them all). Sounds like you've got a pretty damn good routine going for you.