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Just wash your face with freezing cold water twice a day and get it over with.First of all:
Consistency is key. Cleanse, treat, protect.
Every day.
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Before anything, SUNSCREEN. While those light and invisible AB ones are more elegant, if you really want to fight that UVA destruction, use a high PPD one to protect your skin the most. If you don't care about that, consistency is key but remember to use a stronger sports one for longer sun exposure. This is basically your shield of Avalon, your lifelong investment that will pay off in the end. No matter what else you use and how much you spend on skincare, if you don't use sunscreen, it will be useless. Go out in daylight and enjoy your life, but protect your face, neck and chest at least.
Use the one of your choice, preferably with stable and good filters, starting with SPF50 and at least PPD16 or PA++++. || I’d recommend to use one with high PPD because I care more about longterm UVA protection than cosmetic elegance, just make sure you have one you like, especially if you have a perma-tan or face darker than your body. But. THE BEST SUNSCREEN IS THE ONE YOU’LL USE.
-Tretinoin: If sunscreen is your shield, this is your Excalibur and heavy hitter. It will refine texture, prevent lines, reverse damage, even out, brighten and perfect your skin as realistically possible. It's harsh, irritating and strong at first, but it works and it shows. You have to stay on life for this though to continue to gather benefits, but those anti aging products are minions compared to this Titan and its results. It makes the skin photosensitive, so you can't skip sunscreen at all or it will do more damage than good (!!!). Use only at night. Keep yourself hydrated and moisturized properly or it will damage your moisture barrier.
Start with alternate usage and slowly increase until your skin gets used to it. 0.025% is more than enough for anti-aging.
- Vitamin C: The best antioxidant you can use, specifically in the form of L-AA (Ascorbic Acid). Brightens discoloration, fades scars, evens out skin tone and pigmentation, encourages collagen growth and helps repair, prevent and reverse UV damage. Once a day is more than enough of this.
Choose one of your option with an effective and stable pH. Examples: Skinceuticals, Paula's Choice, Timeless, Melano CC, Tiam, etc || Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E improve stability and effectiveness.
-Niacinamide: It's gentler than Vitamin C and does many of the same things, but it's not as clear that it helps boost collagen. Repairs and prevents. Brightening so if you have discoloration it's great, and it's a heavy hitter for PIE and PIH. Reduces wrinkles, is antioxidant, helps with skin barrier, photo protective, reduces hyperpigmentation, anti-inflammatory... Want that luminous, ethereal glow? Bathe in this. (Joking, I wish I could.)
Concentration up to 5% is more than ideal and enough. Above that it's not proven to be stronger. If paired with NAG Stratia Rewind, Shark Sauce, etc.
-Hyaluronic Acid: Brilliant as a humectant and hydrator. Reduces the appearance of lines/wrinkles by plumping the skin like no other. Paired with an occlusive to seal all the hydrating layers it will retain long lasting results.
Use the one of your choice. Hada Labo, Isntree, Elizavecca etc make great options that are simple and affordable.
Gentle Cleansing: Can't stress this enough!!! Cleansing takes a huge toll on the skin if you believe it or not, so after making sure that you're using something that is low pH, choose the gentlest option possible. You're not supposed to feel stripped clean, just *soft* and clean!
Avoid strong sulfates, harsh ingredients and high pH products. The gentler, the better.
- Moisturizer: A gel/cream/balm product that works for you, is a staple and that you can always return to. Oils are also emollient, and work well for many people to improve moisture. Urea is very moisturizing and is also a keratolytic. Emollience keeps the skin from getting dry, which causes wrinkles to be more apparent. Have one for the warmer and colder weather, and never, never skip this if you can. You need moisture, always, period.
This is supposed to *moisturize* and keep your skin moisture levels in check and balanced. It's not supposed to be miraculous, just to work fine with your skin and keep it healthy, happy and soft.
- Ceramides: to keep that moisture barrier in top condition and your skin healthy so it heals faster and behaves better. There's a perfect ratio of 3:1:1 with cholesterol and fatty acids that is proven to be more effective for damaged skin, but it's helpful to always use some nevertheless, even if not as quick or effective.
Common recommendations here: Stratia Liquid Gold, Ceracolla/Rosette gel and lotions, Dr Jart Ceramidin line, Matsuyama toners, HolikaHolika Super Good Cera Emulsion/Cream, Kikumasamune, Cezanne and Mebika, Mochitto lotions, etc.
- AHAs: exfoliate the skin by stimulating cell regrowth and collagen production by exfoliating the outer, tougher more aged layer of skin and thus reducing lines. They help maintaining the skin younger, but don't overdo them and take them lightly or you'll regret it. Con: make skin photosensitive, so you need extra sun protection at all times while using these. 20% glycolic acid is proven to stimulate collagen production.
Ph has to be effective to work, but don't overdo it and start low. Over-exfoliation and a damaged moisture barrier is no joke.
-Occlusives: These will keep the hydration in, preventing transepidermal water loss. Seal in all your hard work and keep your skin plump, moisturized, hydrated and repaired. Vaseline is the best in this category, and once you find a sealant that works for you, it will make a world of difference, I swear!!! Can't win against dehydrated skin if you don't seal it! Plus it reduces lines by making skin bouncy, glowing and plump.
Choose one of your choice. A sleeping pack or a proper occlusive like Vaseline, Aquaphor, Cerave Healing Ointment, LRP Cicaplast Gel, silicones, etc.
- Peptides: More specifically, Matrixyl 3000 and Matrixyl synthe'6, which help with prevention, repair and reversal. Copper peptides increase collagen production by 50% if used properly, but overdone and it can cause more damage than good and it can be expensive, so no need to use it too early.
Copper peptides: NIOD, Alpha H, TO. || Peptides: Dr Jart, PTR Un-Wrinkle Lotion, TO Matrixyl 10%, Timeless, etc
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Other options:
0.1% madecassoside: increases collagen type I synthesis
3% DMAE: applied daily for 16 weeks improved skin firmness significantly in vivo, helping with elastin loss.
Green tea: Another antioxidant that can reverse UV damage and help with protection, but isn't very stable.
Q10/Ubiquinone: another antioxidant that helps to prevent and repair those lines + UV protection.
Hydroquinone: for age spots and hyperpigmentation. Use for three months and stop for three months before you start again.
2% Alpha Arbutin and Tranexamic Acid: brightening, help with fading and evening out scars/skin tone.
Aloe Vera: is very good for mending damages done by UV rays
Panthenol: an anti-inflammatory with softening, soothing, and anti-irritant properties. It also helps skin build up a barrier against irritation and water loss.
Honey, licorice and propolis: want glowy, hydrated and healthy skin? Look no further! Is antibacterial, healing and gives you theGlow.
Ginseng: can be disputed, but is highly beloved by some
Snail: Not really anti aging, but some say is healing and soothing. So it can make your skin bounce back from bad reactions and regenerate faster + heal better, plus it's hydrating and plumping.
Centella Asiatica: healing, soothing, calming
Ferments (ex. Bifida, Galactomyces): users report a refined and brighter complexion after finding one that works for them
(Fraxel) Laser: expensive, but has amazing results, especially with good skincare to maintain it. If you want to invest in 'skincare', this is the only thing truly worth it.
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Lastly,
Common sense. You can't fight gravity and old age. Enjoy your life, try to avoid stress and be as happy as you can. Sleep well and eat well. Take care of your health and cherish it. Avoid tanning, smoking and drinking too much. Don't see the sun as your enemy, you need it. Build your routine slowly and stay consistent. Some ingredients/products may not give you results, and some actives might not work for you at all, so don't force it. Enjoy your routine and don't try out too much, skin doesn't like being disrupted and can lash back at you for that.Respect your skin, be kind to it and work with what you have, instead of having unreal expectations and taking it for granted.
My opinion: It's all about the sync with ingredients and routine I guess, not only specific products. No need to splurge on very expensive products if you don't want to, as long as the core ingredients for most results are covered and you enjoy what you’re using! It's not about what you can afford, but choose to afford.
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Check out these posts:
(!) Research paper links: u/Feather-Light’s comment on anti-aging ingredients
u/Feather-Light’s thread on the anti-aging topic
u/Feather-Light’s comment on the topic again
u/Feather-Light’s comment on the effectivenes of UV filters
ABA's Introduction to ingredients
ABA's Recommendations on ingredients
ABA's Guide on Skin Barrier
ABA's Guide on Over Exfoliation
ABA's Guide on Chemical Exfoliation
On SCA: Anti Aging HG Thread
@Chad1212 @inceletto @Copemaxxing @Lev Peshkov @austrianvirgin @Over
