Hello .org and welcome to this guide made by me (a grey
) that is supposed to showcase how easy it is to reach your skin goals and how nearly all the stuff you may be using is completely useless and a waste of money
Before i get into this guide i js want to clarify that this guide is intended for people who have no to medium acne and just want to get optimal skin, if you are struggling with severe acne you should just take accutane and get rid of the acne to the most part first and then start implementing things like tretinoin azelaic acid etc.
Table of contents:
-The basics
-What works
-What doesn't work/waste of money
-What might be a good addition
-Basic routine
The Basics:
Cleanser & Moisturizer:
An effective skincare routine is built on two essential products: a cleanser and a moisturizer. These form the foundation of healthy skin by maintaining cleanliness and supporting the skin barrier.
A cleanser removes dirt, excess sebum, sweat, and environmental impurities from the skin. Proper cleansing helps prevent clogged pores and prepares the skin for any additional treatments.
A moisturizer hydrates the skin and supports the skin barrier — the outer protective layer that prevents water loss and shields against external irritants. Maintaining a healthy barrier improves overall skin texture, resilience, and appearance.
How to choose based on skin type:
Oily / Acne-prone skin: Use a gentle foaming or gel cleanser and a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer. Ingredients such as niacinamide can help regulate sebum production.
Dry skin: Opt for a cream-based, non-foaming cleanser and a richer moisturizer containing ceramides or glycerin.
Sensitive skin: Choose fragrance-free products with minimal ingredients to reduce irritation risk.
Combination skin: A mild gel cleanser and a balanced, lightweight moisturizer are typically suitable.
Example brands and products:
CeraVe – Hydrating Cleanser, Foaming Cleanser, Moisturizing Cream
La Roche-Posay – Toleriane Cleanser, Effaclar Gel
The Ordinary – Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
Neutrogena – Hydro Boost Water Gel
The focus should be on consistency and compatibility with your skin type rather than the number of products used. A strong basic routine creates the necessary conditions for long-term skin health.
What works:
What Actually Works: Retinoids
If there is one category of active ingredients that consistently delivers measurable skin improvement, it is retinoids.
Retinoids are a family of vitamin A derivatives that increase skin cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, regulate sebum, and normalize pore function. This makes them effective for acne, uneven texture, hyperpigmentation, and early signs of aging.
The most potent and well-studied form is tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid), which works directly on retinoic acid receptors in the skin. Other forms — such as retinol and retinal (retinaldehyde) — must first convert into retinoic acid inside the skin, making them generally milder but also less potent.
Prescription-strength tretinoin (e.g., products like Retin-A) has decades of clinical research supporting its effectiveness. Over-the-counter retinol products from brands like The Ordinary or La Roche-Posay offer lower-strength alternatives for beginners.
Retinoids form the core of a results-oriented skincare routine because they directly influence how skin cells behave. While cleansers and moisturizers maintain skin health, retinoids actively remodel it. Without a retinoid, most additional products provide only marginal improvements. With one, you are addressing the underlying biology of the skin.
How to use:
Start 2–3 times per week at night.
Apply a pea-sized amount to dry skin.
Follow with moisturizer.
Always use sunscreen during the day.
Common side effects:
Dryness
Mild irritation
Flaking
Temporary breakouts during the first weeks (“retinization phase”)
These effects are usually temporary as the skin adapts. Introducing the product slowly and maintaining good barrier support reduces irritation risk.
In a streamlined routine, a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer, sunscreen, and a retinoid cover nearly everything that is scientifically proven to create long-term visible change. Most other additions are optional refinements rather than necessities.
Azelaic Acid: The Perfect Partner
Azelaic acid is one of the most underrated active ingredients in skincare. It works by reducing inflammation, calming redness, inhibiting acne-causing bacteria, and gently normalizing keratin production inside the pores. It also helps fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.
Unlike many harsh actives, azelaic acid is generally well tolerated and suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
While it is not as biologically transformative as a retinoid, it pairs exceptionally well with tretinoin. Tretinoin accelerates cell turnover and stimulates collagen; azelaic acid reduces inflammation, controls breakouts, and brightens pigmentation. Together, they address texture, clarity, tone, and long-term skin structure at the same time.
This combination is often responsible for what people online describe as “glass skin” or a high-clarity glow — smoother texture, more even tone, and visibly calmer skin. The results are not magic, but when used consistently, the synergy can feel dramatic.
How to use:
Can be applied once daily (morning or night).
Often used in the morning if tretinoin is used at night.
Apply after cleansing and before moisturizer.
Sunscreen remains essential.
Common side effects may include mild tingling or dryness at the beginning, but irritation risk is typically low compared to stronger acids.
If tretinoin is the foundation of a results-driven routine, azelaic acid is the most logical upgrade — not essential, but the strongest complementary addition for clearer, brighter, and more refined skin over time.
What doesn't work/waste of money:
What Doesn’t Really Work (At Least Not in a Meaningful Way)
The skincare industry thrives on distraction. While retinoids directly change how skin cells function, many trending products offer minimal, cosmetic, or temporary effects — often at a premium price.
Let’s be honest: compared to tretinoin, most of these are noise.
1. Collagen Creams
Topical collagen does not meaningfully increase collagen production in the skin. The molecules are too large to penetrate deeply. At best, they provide surface-level hydration. They do not rebuild your skin.
2. “Salmon Sperm” / PDRN Treatments
These sound futuristic and exclusive, but the real-world topical benefits are modest. The marketing is dramatic; the results are subtle. You are paying for novelty.
3. Charcoal Masks
Activated charcoal gets marketed like a miracle detox agent, but it doesn’t “suck out” deep impurities. It can dry the skin and strip oils without improving texture or structural health.
4. “Essential Oils” as Main Actives
Lavender, tea tree, rosehip, and similar oils smell nice and may have mild antimicrobial effects. They do not correct texture, stimulate collagen, or meaningfully change skin biology — and they can irritate sensitive skin.
5. High-Dose Niacinamide Serums
Niacinamide has benefits — oil regulation, mild barrier support — but compared to azelaic acid, its impact is modest. It does not significantly remodel skin or correct deep texture issues. In a streamlined routine built around tretinoin and azelaic acid, it becomes optional rather than essential.
What might be a good addition:
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it attracts and binds water to the skin. It improves hydration, reduces the appearance of fine lines caused by dryness, and supports overall skin smoothness. It does not stimulate collagen or change skin structure, but it enhances skin comfort and appearance. Look for formulas with multiple molecular weights and apply to slightly damp skin, then seal with a moisturizer to prevent water loss.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C (preferably L-ascorbic acid in the 10–20% range) is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals from UV exposure and pollution. It can brighten skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and mildly support collagen production. Stability matters: choose air-tight, opaque packaging and avoid formulas that have turned dark orange or brown. Use in the morning under sunscreen for best results.
Basic routine:
Morning:
Gentle cleanser
Vitamin C serum
(Optional) Azelaic acid
Hyaluronic acid serum (on damp skin)
Moisturizer
Sunscreen
Night:
Gentle cleanser
Azelaic acid (if not used in the morning)
Tretinoin (pea-sized amount, on dry skin)
Hyaluronic acid if needed for hydration
Moisturizer
That's it for my first ever guide ik most of this is water but i just wanted to start posting and show people that they don't need to waste that much money on useless shit. Just for context this guide does not cover microneedeling but I still think that microneedeling can be really effective.
Studies:
pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
www.sciencedirect.com
pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
I hope yall have a great day
Just noticed that I forgot to mention sunscreen you should use it every day no exceptions
) that is supposed to showcase how easy it is to reach your skin goals and how nearly all the stuff you may be using is completely useless and a waste of moneyBefore i get into this guide i js want to clarify that this guide is intended for people who have no to medium acne and just want to get optimal skin, if you are struggling with severe acne you should just take accutane and get rid of the acne to the most part first and then start implementing things like tretinoin azelaic acid etc.
Table of contents:
-The basics
-What works
-What doesn't work/waste of money
-What might be a good addition
-Basic routine
The Basics:
Cleanser & Moisturizer:
An effective skincare routine is built on two essential products: a cleanser and a moisturizer. These form the foundation of healthy skin by maintaining cleanliness and supporting the skin barrier.
A cleanser removes dirt, excess sebum, sweat, and environmental impurities from the skin. Proper cleansing helps prevent clogged pores and prepares the skin for any additional treatments.
A moisturizer hydrates the skin and supports the skin barrier — the outer protective layer that prevents water loss and shields against external irritants. Maintaining a healthy barrier improves overall skin texture, resilience, and appearance.
How to choose based on skin type:
Oily / Acne-prone skin: Use a gentle foaming or gel cleanser and a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer. Ingredients such as niacinamide can help regulate sebum production.
Dry skin: Opt for a cream-based, non-foaming cleanser and a richer moisturizer containing ceramides or glycerin.
Sensitive skin: Choose fragrance-free products with minimal ingredients to reduce irritation risk.
Combination skin: A mild gel cleanser and a balanced, lightweight moisturizer are typically suitable.
Example brands and products:
CeraVe – Hydrating Cleanser, Foaming Cleanser, Moisturizing Cream
La Roche-Posay – Toleriane Cleanser, Effaclar Gel
The Ordinary – Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
Neutrogena – Hydro Boost Water Gel
The focus should be on consistency and compatibility with your skin type rather than the number of products used. A strong basic routine creates the necessary conditions for long-term skin health.
What works:
What Actually Works: Retinoids
If there is one category of active ingredients that consistently delivers measurable skin improvement, it is retinoids.
Retinoids are a family of vitamin A derivatives that increase skin cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, regulate sebum, and normalize pore function. This makes them effective for acne, uneven texture, hyperpigmentation, and early signs of aging.
The most potent and well-studied form is tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid), which works directly on retinoic acid receptors in the skin. Other forms — such as retinol and retinal (retinaldehyde) — must first convert into retinoic acid inside the skin, making them generally milder but also less potent.
Prescription-strength tretinoin (e.g., products like Retin-A) has decades of clinical research supporting its effectiveness. Over-the-counter retinol products from brands like The Ordinary or La Roche-Posay offer lower-strength alternatives for beginners.
Retinoids form the core of a results-oriented skincare routine because they directly influence how skin cells behave. While cleansers and moisturizers maintain skin health, retinoids actively remodel it. Without a retinoid, most additional products provide only marginal improvements. With one, you are addressing the underlying biology of the skin.
How to use:
Start 2–3 times per week at night.
Apply a pea-sized amount to dry skin.
Follow with moisturizer.
Always use sunscreen during the day.
Common side effects:
Dryness
Mild irritation
Flaking
Temporary breakouts during the first weeks (“retinization phase”)
These effects are usually temporary as the skin adapts. Introducing the product slowly and maintaining good barrier support reduces irritation risk.
In a streamlined routine, a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer, sunscreen, and a retinoid cover nearly everything that is scientifically proven to create long-term visible change. Most other additions are optional refinements rather than necessities.
Azelaic Acid: The Perfect Partner
Azelaic acid is one of the most underrated active ingredients in skincare. It works by reducing inflammation, calming redness, inhibiting acne-causing bacteria, and gently normalizing keratin production inside the pores. It also helps fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.
Unlike many harsh actives, azelaic acid is generally well tolerated and suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
While it is not as biologically transformative as a retinoid, it pairs exceptionally well with tretinoin. Tretinoin accelerates cell turnover and stimulates collagen; azelaic acid reduces inflammation, controls breakouts, and brightens pigmentation. Together, they address texture, clarity, tone, and long-term skin structure at the same time.
This combination is often responsible for what people online describe as “glass skin” or a high-clarity glow
— smoother texture, more even tone, and visibly calmer skin. The results are not magic, but when used consistently, the synergy can feel dramatic.How to use:
Can be applied once daily (morning or night).
Often used in the morning if tretinoin is used at night.
Apply after cleansing and before moisturizer.
Sunscreen remains essential.
Common side effects may include mild tingling or dryness at the beginning, but irritation risk is typically low compared to stronger acids.
If tretinoin is the foundation of a results-driven routine, azelaic acid is the most logical upgrade — not essential, but the strongest complementary addition for clearer, brighter, and more refined skin over time.
What doesn't work/waste of money:
What Doesn’t Really Work (At Least Not in a Meaningful Way)
The skincare industry thrives on distraction. While retinoids directly change how skin cells function, many trending products offer minimal, cosmetic, or temporary effects — often at a premium price.
Let’s be honest: compared to tretinoin, most of these are noise.
1. Collagen Creams
Topical collagen does not meaningfully increase collagen production in the skin. The molecules are too large to penetrate deeply. At best, they provide surface-level hydration. They do not rebuild your skin.
2. “Salmon Sperm” / PDRN Treatments
These sound futuristic and exclusive, but the real-world topical benefits are modest. The marketing is dramatic; the results are subtle. You are paying for novelty.
3. Charcoal Masks
Activated charcoal gets marketed like a miracle detox agent, but it doesn’t “suck out” deep impurities. It can dry the skin and strip oils without improving texture or structural health.
4. “Essential Oils” as Main Actives
Lavender, tea tree, rosehip, and similar oils smell nice and may have mild antimicrobial effects. They do not correct texture, stimulate collagen, or meaningfully change skin biology — and they can irritate sensitive skin.
5. High-Dose Niacinamide Serums
Niacinamide has benefits — oil regulation, mild barrier support — but compared to azelaic acid, its impact is modest. It does not significantly remodel skin or correct deep texture issues. In a streamlined routine built around tretinoin and azelaic acid, it becomes optional rather than essential.
What might be a good addition:
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it attracts and binds water to the skin. It improves hydration, reduces the appearance of fine lines caused by dryness, and supports overall skin smoothness. It does not stimulate collagen or change skin structure, but it enhances skin comfort and appearance. Look for formulas with multiple molecular weights and apply to slightly damp skin, then seal with a moisturizer to prevent water loss.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C (preferably L-ascorbic acid in the 10–20% range) is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals from UV exposure and pollution. It can brighten skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and mildly support collagen production. Stability matters: choose air-tight, opaque packaging and avoid formulas that have turned dark orange or brown. Use in the morning under sunscreen for best results.
Basic routine:
Morning:
Gentle cleanser
Vitamin C serum
(Optional) Azelaic acid
Hyaluronic acid serum (on damp skin)
Moisturizer
Sunscreen
Night:
Gentle cleanser
Azelaic acid (if not used in the morning)
Tretinoin (pea-sized amount, on dry skin)
Hyaluronic acid if needed for hydration
Moisturizer
That's it for my first ever guide ik most of this is water but i just wanted to start posting and show people that they don't need to waste that much money on useless shit. Just for context this guide does not cover microneedeling but I still think that microneedeling can be really effective.
Studies:
Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trials - PMC
Aging, an inevitable and continuous process in one’s lifetime, has all along been a focus of interest, especially for women, yet photoaging treatment to slow the process remains challenging. Recent studies have demonstrated the potency of topical ...
pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Sustained improvement in photodamaged skin with reduced tretinoin emollient cream treatment regimen: Effect of once-weekly and three-times-weekly applications
Background: Previous studies have documented reversal of long-term photodamage with once-daily applications of topical tretinoin. Objective: Our purpo…
The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology: mechanism of action, preparations, and potential therapeutic applications - PMC
Azelaic acid (AZA) is a naturally occurring saturated dicarboxylic acid whose topical application has found multiple uses in dermatology. Its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties against Propionibacterium acne are currently ...
pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
I hope yall have a great day
Just noticed that I forgot to mention sunscreen you should use it every day no exceptions
Last edited:
